Big Wave Surfing question

Just go for it. Get a plane ticket to Hawaii, catch a cab to the North Shore, paddle out at 3rd reef pipe, wait for the biggest set and go for it. In all seriousness I think starting young will help you but build up to it. I started at 16 years old (22 years ago this past April) and have ridden up to about 2x overhead. Keep in mind riding bigger waves you need to be in better shape than you average east coast day. You will need more strength, stamina and mental conditioning. Also you will really need to be able to hold your breath and not panic during a long hold down.

 

Braddah is 17 yet worried he started too late. How funny.

Charge those big boys son!!

rcarter speaks truth on the differences in physical and mental conditioning, which start with survival and safety on the ones you don't make the drop, then progress to the conditioning you need to actually get the takeoff.

Plenty of brahs will chime in I'm sure and check the search engine out as there's so many good threads with big wave discussion. I read through one from over a year ago last night called Steep Drops I think. Had a lot of good responses and several that contradicted each other but there's a lot of ways to skin a cat.

Once again, you're still muy joven and so far from starting late even though yes, you see groms all around that are nasty. That's got nothing to do with how good you will or won't get. Can't wait to read some great responses here, good post!

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zXfRUMKaH5c

1 part of 6. Get frothy.

 

No, you're not too young at all, although for big waves I think you need to be more than just a "surfer"... You really need to be a waterman. When you talk about Mavericks, Waimea, or outer reefs in Hawaii, it'd not just about whether you can make the drop, but how you manage yourself when things don't go right... You can't count on a jetski to come get you or inflatable wetsuits to save your life. All that stuff helps, and limits your liabilities, but it shouldn't be a cruch to make up for deficiencies in your ability to manage yourself in the open water when nature can be at its fiercest. Just my thoughts...

 

just go for it. I was twice your age when I first rode a gun at Sunset and Waimea. younger is better, you are waaaaay more dumb!

I was scared out of my mind. Sometimes only 2 waves in 3 hour sessions. learn to hold your breath and go. its waaaaaaay more fun than you think. I 'limited out' last season at 15' Hawaiian. Broke board (9'6 gun) went in with tail between legs, felt like kook. 10' (Hawaiian)Sunset with small crowd is a GREAT time to learn.

I still suck at surfing.....but I WENT....and IT WAS GOOD

and learn to SWIM, like miles at a time, with no gear, in the ocean.

Im really looking forward to my recovery from surgery and trying to see if my limits have expanded (casue the limits push back, as they say), its scary and **** for sure, I'm scared, not gonna lie, but the payoff is insane, your first big boy is gonna be burned into your brain.

Im not talking sh@t here, I only say numbers based on what my mates told me they saw.

Im a guy who is/was a mediocre athlete and I have to work a real job, I am not a big wave surfer, I just like to test myself once in a while

 

Your age is perfect, but I would say you haven't had enough time on the water. Sounds like you have been surfing less than a year. Are you an EC surfer? In that case, you probably should get some reef experience on normal sized waves. If you are on the EC, and don't have the money or means to travel, it will be hard to quickly gain the experience needed to tackle the big stuff.

 

You're gonna get good by mistake then if you get enough time on the water. I mean it's not like you're surrounded by world-class breaks or anything...

 

#lineupprobs #lotsaskis

[video=youtube;usi5iMoS-l0]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=usi5iMoS-l0[/video]

 

Ya really. Just keep paddling out.

 

Maybe this kid wants to do one of those home trade/swap things for a period of time. I think those are popular in Europe. I've got a crib right on the Atlantic with numerous breaks within a short to 40-60 minute drive. Don't have near the swell such as found around this young buc but the seafood here will blow ya doors off.

 

Don't pay any mind to the resident SI Forum nattering nabob of narcissism, aka emass8'. He, like most on here, have never been out in anything close to what you're wondering about.

If you're really in Santa Cruz, kid, look up the hard-core locals there; they'd have the chops, they'd have the stories & they'd have the wave counsel that is true.

 

Dude if you live in Santa Cruz just go look for Frosty, he will teach you all you need to know for Mavs! But yeah there is a lot of local knowledge there that can help you far better than an intraweb forum can.

 

ya if you wanna go big, start at the lane on big days, then patricks point up in humbolt then maybe mavs. mavs is the most serious, its a hectic wave

 

(edited because he's got experience)

 

^^^and this guy....

I love you all.

 

for clarification (thanks BP, I have a lil experience, but not a lot)) I never surfed mavs, but a sizable day at the Lane and some stuff on north shore...enough to know I dont want to mess with mavs, at all I think

 

Right back at ya braddah, no homo

 

Ha Ha good one