Big Wave Surfing question

I'm all good with a wave that killed Mark Foo and Sion Miloski. Strangely it does look make able in the videos.

 

I know right. In many pics and vids it looks like the drop would not be that terrible compared to most big wave spots, course like you said I ain't messin with a wave that killed some of the great big wave surfers of our time. Plus you got the crazy currents, rocks and oh yeah big @ss sharks!

 

rcarter, if there were eternal peace and salvation in the trough of that 35-50ft jacker would you still not paddle/tow into it?

 

Hmmm that is a tough one. I would have to say no as I would never want to miss seeing my son grow up, graduate, get married, etc. But if I was single and childless I would go for it fur sure!

 

I want no part of big surf like that. I get plenty of rush surfing waves head high to 2x overhead. Big wave surfing is more survival surfing. I have no one to impress in this world. I still don't understand how some of thsoe guys survive those falls and beatdowns.
As stated it takes more than just being able to "surf". You need to be an all around waterman I believe to surf truly big waves...a swimmer, diver, etc. You need to be able to survive when you don't just drop in a ride out to the shoulder without incident.
Sure some guys though are just plain psychos though like the Mavericks' crew...I read that some of those guys used to surf Maverick's on LSD etc.
Have fun...

 

What, brah, so you don't wanna be cruising down the face at Ship's Bluff with the smooveness only to be falsed by a boil that burps on the face and shotts you over the shoulder falls? C'mon, I thought you guys liked you some real fun.

 

Its definitely a whole different sport! It also takes a very rare individual.

Biggest waves I've surfed was in the 20' -25' range and it seemed like it was a hundred feet high! I find that its not the wave or the ride itself that bothers me or that I fear. What gets me is the paddle out or getting stuck inside! Also the clean-up sets will put a slight panic in you. Once you see that one wave on the horizon, touching the clouds a little more than the others, you immediately start paddling out like there's a shark behind you! If you make it you look behind you at the carnage of others swirling and bobbling around trying regain composure in the eerie, quiet, aftermath of foam!

On my last trip to Nicaragua was probably the biggest waves I have personally seen. Seen being the key word! We were at "Outer Reef" and did paddle out but just to have front row seats. None of us had the right equipment for the job as the guys that were surfing had guns and helmets and were getting towed in. It literally looked just like Pipeline! People get seriously hurt there and there have deaths too! One big issue is that the nearest hospital is about an hour and a half maybe two from there!

Last year I left a couple boards and a board bag with a friend that lives there. On my last trip my board bag came up missing and when I asked my friend where it was he replied, "Sorry man, I owe you a board bag... one of the locals was found floating at "Outers" and we used your board bag for a body bag!" Which is fine with me cause I really didn't want it back after that!

I guess that's the best way to go though! Die surfing and then you are put in a boardbag!

 

wavehog I saw the outer reef back in 2004, its pretty heavy, I didn't go. One guy I knew there had bounced off the bottom and gotten his anus torn open. I cant imagine 3rd world hospital and anus stitches go well together. I dont think anus stitches go well with anything actually

 

I'm calling modesty on that one. What's the biggest wave you've rode? HAS to have been fairly big, even by Hawaiian scale.

 

I love your attitude kid.u can do anything u want.just go for it and don't take shyt from anyone

 

also most bigwave guys at mavs are older.it takes years to achieve the level there at,your young so u have plenty of time.theres a few kids but its too dangerous for most kids.what I learned over the years watchin these bigwave guys is its mind over matter.it really has nothing to do with how fit u are,how healthy,how long u can hold your breath.its all in the mind and u have to mentally be fit to handle the beating.theres skinny guys,fat guys,young kids,health freaks fit as possible,it makes no difference. the ocean calls the shots.check out the powerlines videos on youtube,good stuff.

 

I consider double overhead surf gigantic (will never surf it unless it's on a point break and even then I'd be nervous). Head high plus is damn big ( will surf with caution), and waist to chest with an occasional bomb set perfection. I see no reason to ride giant waves, and know I will never do it. Good for anyone who does but I will never crowd that line up.

 

I'm with you man. Give me chest high, and I am stoked. I can't personally see any reason to surf a 20+ ft wave. Takes big testicles, no fear of death, and a little stupidity. I do enjoy watching the big wave competitions.

 

Do your homework.
Study the waves, and how they are being surfed.
Charge!
Buy lots of guns and use them.

http://www.swellinfo.com/forum/showthread.php?20796-Greg-Noll-Jose-Angel-Tribute-Board

http://barrysnyderdesigns.com

 

surfed the cave in portugal. heavy and biggest wave I ever surfed for sure. but docent come close to mavericks ghost trees or anything in that category, jaws. . insane stuff

 

cave! that wave is insane! you surf coxos? when did you go?

 

You guys should check some of the Portugal cams tomorrow and wednesday. (23 ft hurr durr) not really, but big enough

 

Wow...just looked up Cave hadn't heard of it until now...that wave looks insane, looks like Shark Island in some of the pics...I need to go to Portugal.

 

So lately I've discovered my real love in life is outer space. I haven't been off of earth yet, in fact my greatest achieved is a whooping 36000 foot commercial flight haha. Anyways I'm 17 years old and started flying when I was near ending 16. Does age when I started affect the chances of me being able to achieve going to dream places such as the moon? I know it's a dumb question but seeing all these kids that started at young ages and knowing all the Astronauts I've grown to love have all started to when they were little guys. So am i just being a dramatic kook or does my age kind of hold me back? Also does anyone know a well known Astronaut who started late in life?

 

Get enough balloons and a bb gun and some oxygen and see how high you can go.