today was my first time in overhead to doubleoverhead waves it was really epic and scary but sortof fun. Now my question is i go out in bigger surf more often am i gonna be able to be more comfortable in it?
Just don't get "too comfortable"... that's when you can get caught making a mistake and end up paying for it. It was solid 8-10 ft here. At times the wind was making it pretty gnarly, but occasionally it would lay down long enough to get a few clean bombs. Definitely some filthy brown kegs though.
Today in Long Branch was one of those days when I paddled out and said to myself, well... I guess I have to catch a wave now to get in... easier said then done.
Well, you know we haven't had a real solid swell in awhile when we start calling today double overhead. I wish it were true, I really really do. Disclaimer: I surfed in Monmouth County today, I don't have a clue how it was in other places.
Ditto in MD on the wind factor. Not quite as big, but it was pretty gnarly here as well. It's frustrating with the wind like that because the waves look so damned perfect, but actually catching them is an ordeal in itself. I took a nice headfirst trip over the falls and hit the bottom real hard on one of 'em. Like this guy said, don't get too cocky...or, in my experience, you can be cocky as long as you don't fall headfirst like an a$$hole.
