the remnants of Bill paid off nicely. I surfed myself silly yesterday evening at an undisclosed location in Asbury. light crowd, fun waves. brought the log because i wasn't expecting sh**, but it turned out to be good. not bad for the first day of Summer. the only draw-back, and I have to point this out was the swim rope or whatever it's called. had to try and hop it on a few inside sections. other that that, it was Gold Jerry Golllld.
Barry tells stories of PR in the 70s and what-not. Imagine that scene? How utterly irie and awesome it was. The only issues were probably crappy board design and unshaved pubes. Aside from those things, Barry caught PR when it was still Gold.
First day of summer is June 1st. Wtf... How do these things make sense to yous people? Morning today was nice though, showed up just before low tide and then next 3-4 hours observed the sets get more and more spaced out. TRunkin it, with a 1mm top. Not bad, but had to warm up for a few minutes about an hour in. The second part of the session wasn't cold at all. Mellow waves, mellow crowd, had a taco for lunch after. Having a beer. Monday. Sorry to rant, just in good spirits today What's this I hear about Wednesday?
True on the board design, but the last few years I lived there shorter boards were coming into play, so we had fun anyway. But it was nice living there back then--you could actually surf Marias, Tres Palmas (if breaking), Dogmans, etc, all by yourself for extended periods (days, not hours). Nowadays, you can get a couple of hours here and there by yourself, but it doesn't last long. the difference is this : The Portoricans have learned to surf - during the 60's and 70's very few did. And they are really into bellyboarding
Oh, so he's not, in fact, Puerto Rican. That's too bad. It would have added a certain flavor, a spice if you will, to Barry's aura. An angry old Puerto Rican guy in ...NEW HAMPSIRE !! Sanpping-wise at novice surfers on a surf predictin website message board. Aboot Puerto Ricans not being able to surf in the 60's-70's... Ahh man, it used to be like that all over the globe. Man, nobody in Nova Scotia could surf until the 90's......British Columbia....Europe..... I still say Europeans shouldn't be allowed to surf.
Okay, allow me to bring you up to date, Monsewer Martin. I am NOT a PR native--never claimed I was.. I was born in the USa, then at my age of 1 month, me parents moved to PR. I lived there until 18 and 1/2 yrs of age. Surfed my brains out. When flat, I spearfished, scuba dived, or went boating on my dads Cris Craft. Then I came to college to NH. Got married in NH. And here I remained, which, I am glad I did, because 95% of my PR friends died due to heroin, DonQ, cocaine, quaaludes, speed, homicide victims (2)....you name it. I am still alive, thanks to my french wife. And, as an edit, to the topic of this thread--I actually slipped into the water today and got some small remnants of "bill", not much, but fun waist high surf with my new "Egg". Also, news is reporting Great Whites have been spotted yesterday cruising the shores in southern Maine, a paltry 10-12 miles north of this beach. I kept a sharp lookout!!
Barry... That must have been the childhood of all childhoods. After my first experience in Rincon, back in the mid 80's, I swore to myself I'd live there one day. After 20 years of going back and forth, I've seen the whole island change, too, (for the good and bad, and back again) but know there's still gold there. I haven't been there recently... last time was about 5 years ago. But still... a fond place in my heart for the place... flat, waves, and everything in between.
