Did you guys see the CJ interview live late yesterday afternoon. Peter Mel was asking him about his over the falls incident and asked him how he was able to go right back out and snag another huge one. CJ basically said he could barely remember, because he was completely fuzzy and shaken up. He described the hold down on the reef and how it just ripped him across it and wouldn't let him up. He said the amount of air traveling through the water in different directions was insane. He said when the ski finally got him, and he composed himself enough to remember where he was, he was thinking of going to the boat to get a life vest. He said he didn't really have time and wasn't thinking clearly so he didn't get the vest. And he said how today, if it was a lot bigger, he thinks everyone in the contest should have a vest on. He said it was one of the worst beatings he has taken at this spot over the years. He said he was only semi-conscious when he came back out, just turned when the set came and got an even bigger one.
Dang.... Day 1 wipeouts. Pretty much sums it up right there. Wow. http://www.aspworldtour.com/posts/62811/billabong-pro-tahiti-day-1-wipeouts
I don't really follow the ASP/contest stuff, and didn't realize until I heard it yesterday that grabbing the rail results in a lower score? Idk man, I dig rail grabs as a general rule.
I saw one rail grab that got a really high score, but he was super deep at the takeoff and almost didn't make it. It's only an issue for the regular footers this week. Pig dogging is frowned upon, but the as$ stall seems not to take any points away. I hate the as$ stall. It usually goes hand in hand with the pig dog rail grab. The judges just want to see them stand tall, take the right line and make the adjustments with style. I think it makes for a much prettier overall wave. More style. More fluid. Rail grabs should be left for the rest of us mere mortals, who require it all too often in late drop, backside tube attempts in waves that are generally probably not large enough to stand tall inside of anyway.
my favorite was on day 1 when that first western bomb came through and everyone in the channel had to boogie for their lives. Bede was up next heat and they did a slow mo of his face watching that bomb explode. He rightfully looked like he was considering whether he was about to die or embarrass himself but never paddling for a wave. these guys are earning it in this one.
ive been watching, some of those wipeouts were mental. hedge's perfect 10 was legit, but you gotta feel for some of these guys - top pro surfers taking a few massive beatings. that taumatu guy is local and got taken off for spinal MRI's, **** is heavy
The reports said it was 10-14 feet yesterday with clean conditions, yet they called a lay day. only 5-8 today and tomorrow... There must be something massive on the horizon for them to call it off yesterday. The message said "Big Surf on the Way"!!!! Meanwhile, it is reporting 10-14 feet. WTF? Going to be crazy.
On a side note: I don't pay too much attention to the tour pros, however I do follow Kelly somewhat. Interesting cat. Here is a post he made the other day. When I read, it got me thinking, wow, that is a bold statement from a guy that owns this place: He posted this picture that we all saw from Heat 1, Round 1, when the guy paddling out let his board go so he didn't go over the falls with it. Not as bad as the Jet Ski thing years ago... But here is the photo and Kelly's post: kellyslater 2 days ago · Glorified Closeout From my round one heat the other day. When I took off I saw @glenhall81 paddling back out but was so focused down the line that I never saw his board nearly take my head off until watching the video later. That was the best day I've ever surfed at #Teahupoo. Hoping for more big, clean conditions for the remainder. Looks clean on weekend and big on Monday. #CrossYourFingers for some more of this. And to everyone who charged that first day, thank you! Nothing more exciting on earth than watching guys turn, put their heads down and go when it's bombing. : @tomservaisjr. He just signed on to @instagram. One of the all-time great surf photographers so give him a follow. #YouWontGo @cisurfboards @gopro @volcom @asp #BillabongProTahiti That was the best day I've ever surfed at #Teahupoo. - Kelly Slater. Wow I thought. It really was as good as we all thought it was.