Blown out

Discussion in 'Global Surf Talk' started by JayD, Dec 10, 2016.

  1. LBCrew

    LBCrew Well-Known Member

    Aug 12, 2009
    Stoked, dude!

    Your story reminds me of my first big standup barrel, too. Big outside set wave... drop in... scream down the line, just going straight, full speed trim. Make it to the inside where it just opens wide up and gets super hollow and dredges over the sandbar. I remember just standing there, straight up, not doing anything but standing there... watching big chunks of foam flying around me and over my head inside the tube.

    In my mind, I was like... "this is the biggest barrel of my LIFE!" That was probably 30 years ago, at least. I remember it like it was yesterday.
    headhigh likes this.
  2. bubs

    bubs Well-Known Member

    Sep 12, 2010
    LOL all the while thinking "don't you f*cking move, you know what happens when you try"

  3. JayD

    JayD Well-Known Member

    Feb 6, 2012
    Well...did you get blown out or what:cool:? Good stuff though. The best barrel of your life or the first barrel ever are great topics. My first was probably 29 years ago. Sea Ranch KDH...classic outer banks wave grinding through inside. Super glassy sunny day. I was going backside. Raced down the line and just crouched...don't even remember if I grabbed rail. I remember being totally inside the wave and I held my line....did not make it out and got hammered. So worked. I actually was almost crying as I made my way to beach. My whole forearm was missing skin. Road Rashed arm. I sat on beach for at least 30 minutes just dripping blood and came to the realization that I got soooo pitted! I paddled back out all confident and paddled back in b/c my arm was all salty and bleeding. It's funny, I could see that scar for years, I just looked for it and can't make it out anymore but the memory remains!
    sisurfdogg likes this.
  4. LBCrew

    LBCrew Well-Known Member

    Aug 12, 2009
    Naaa.... no blowout. Just, "so pitted!" LOL!

    I'm not positive about what board I was riding... could have been a little 5'8 channel bottom thruster I was riding at the time, or an old first generation quad. I know it was right after a big winter storm in Stone Harbor, at Nuns... one of those semi glassy sessions before the hard offshores kicked in.
  5. mrcoop

    mrcoop Well-Known Member

    Jun 22, 2010
    full fledge blown out...has never happened to me. I had many smaller wave days, head and a little bigger, with some good spit...but if your talking full blown out spitting beast, not me. I aint the greatest either, which may account for the lack of chances. When I was younger, the biggest I surfed was probably double OH, and then I was just surviving most of the time, never worried about getting barreled, tho the barrel is what I live for when given the chances providing the wave size meets my ability.
    Last edited: Dec 14, 2016
  6. DawnPatrol321

    DawnPatrol321 Well-Known Member

    Mar 6, 2012
    I've been blown in many different ways, out being one of them, but it didn't involve surfing. I have however been inside the tube, usually getting destroyed trying to make it out or just accepting my fate as it wasn't possible to begin with. I have gotten some shade by accident in PR and here in FL riding a SB and gotten out but no spit. I have a scar on the inside of my foot from my fin on my LB when I got barreled once and got chewed up. Sliced me right open. I patched it up and surfed another 3hrs. Good times.
  7. JayD

    JayD Well-Known Member

    Feb 6, 2012
    Much respect if you stand tall, get stuffed, and then get destroyed! Way better than turning straight.
  8. sigmund

    sigmund Well-Known Member

    Dec 7, 2015
    Same thing happened to me, held on inside the barrel too long, then went through the wash cycle with my board right next to me. Skeg filleted my calf, the kind of deep wound that doesn't even bleed at first, then it starts gushing and won't stop. Got patched up, but to this day my biggest problem getting barreled is that I dive forward off my board at the first of trouble, my instinct is always to get the fark away from my board, but to really get a good deep barrel and escape from it, ya need to hold on when your mind is saying "Bail out!!!".
  9. DawnPatrol321

    DawnPatrol321 Well-Known Member

    Mar 6, 2012
    Yup, you see the slice of meat filleted open and no blood, then it won't stop. Fins are the devil I tell ya.
  10. frothy cheese

    frothy cheese Well-Known Member

    May 6, 2016
    This weekend gettin blown out one way or another am I right
  11. Notaseal

    Notaseal Well-Known Member

    Apr 18, 2015
    Home Beach, Central California. Two friends, #one really good in small surf, talkin air's, 360's stuff yet he is no go in the big waves, 8 foot and up. #two more like me, just don't care. So we wake up #one telling him it's ok haha he ran back home when he saw the waves. odd the wave that I dropped in on seemed like any other than that it was for the first and only stand up barrel that I ever made it out of. I don't know if there was blowing spit or not
  12. RDB

    RDB Active Member

    Dec 17, 2016
    Caught three solid waves this evening then a viscous front stomped in and wrecked the good time. Nothing like the spray blind drop hoping your still in the honey hole. Sometime yup and other times it was Nope lets roll up the windows!!!! Hahaha good times!
    Last edited: Dec 18, 2016
  13. JayD

    JayD Well-Known Member

    Feb 6, 2012

    Pretty nice blow out and a great example of how rare getting one like that can be (read Q and A). Dana seems like a pretty righteous dude.
  14. La_Piedra

    La_Piedra Well-Known Member

    Oct 9, 2017
  15. sisurfdogg

    sisurfdogg Well-Known Member

    Jun 17, 2013
    I remember long ago but not far away, I got a big left from way outside, all the way past the jetty that emptied me into the inlet and when I made it back to the lineup this guy paddles up to me with big eyes and says, "Dude, you must be living right, you just got the biggest barrel." To be honest, I didn't feel like I was that deep. And I was partying all day err day.

    My first time I got spat out was at Cape Hatteras Lighthouse, it was TOH outside, my board was only 5'9", all the locals were riding 7 to 7'6" guns. So I hit the inside, still way OH and just spitting, I never saw spit on a wave before, I was 19, and it was my first trip to OBX, and my buddy had a polaroid, so I had to go, even though I was shitting bricks, it was breaking so hard and so fast. I went, got pitted and spitted, and Brian got the shot of me afterwards out on the shoulder, it was still about 9 foot of face. I remember that better than my first time getting laid, I can't even remember her name, lmao.
    JayD and soulrider like this.
  16. La_Piedra

    La_Piedra Well-Known Member

    Oct 9, 2017
    Maria Juarez.
  17. ChavezyChavez

    ChavezyChavez Well-Known Member

    Jun 20, 2011
  18. La_Piedra

    La_Piedra Well-Known Member

    Oct 9, 2017
    No, San Diego and I was 14. And she was not your typical Maria Juarez. Blonde curly hair and blue eyed PAWG, didn't speak a lick of espanol.
    At a friend's party while his folks were out of town.

    Glad she knew what she was doing because I didn't have a clue.

    Saw her later at our 20 year reunion, she had a great set of mom humps and angelic face. Totally got ruined by my wife who decided to attend.
    sisurfdogg and ChavezyChavez like this.
  19. headhigh

    headhigh Well-Known Member

    Jul 17, 2009
    yeah, I have wayyy more experience with this type of blown out
  20. foamieswithmyhomies

    foamieswithmyhomies Well-Known Member

    Sep 18, 2014
    With all the flu going around I bet there's plenty of blowing out going on!