Well...did you get blown out or what? Good stuff though. The best barrel of your life or the first barrel ever are great topics. My first was probably 29 years ago. Sea Ranch KDH...classic outer banks wave grinding through inside. Super glassy sunny day. I was going backside. Raced down the line and just crouched...don't even remember if I grabbed rail. I remember being totally inside the wave and I held my line....did not make it out and got hammered. So worked. I actually was almost crying as I made my way to beach. My whole forearm was missing skin. Road Rashed arm. I sat on beach for at least 30 minutes just dripping blood and came to the realization that I got soooo pitted! I paddled back out all confident and paddled back in b/c my arm was all salty and bleeding. It's funny, I could see that scar for years, I just looked for it and can't make it out anymore but the memory remains!
Naaa.... no blowout. Just, "so pitted!" LOL! I'm not positive about what board I was riding... could have been a little 5'8 channel bottom thruster I was riding at the time, or an old first generation quad. I know it was right after a big winter storm in Stone Harbor, at Nuns... one of those semi glassy sessions before the hard offshores kicked in.
full fledge blown out...has never happened to me. I had many smaller wave days, head and a little bigger, with some good spit...but if your talking full blown out spitting beast, not me. I aint the greatest either, which may account for the lack of chances. When I was younger, the biggest I surfed was probably double OH, and then I was just surviving most of the time, never worried about getting barreled, tho the barrel is what I live for when given the chances providing the wave size meets my ability.
I've been blown in many different ways, out being one of them, but it didn't involve surfing. I have however been inside the tube, usually getting destroyed trying to make it out or just accepting my fate as it wasn't possible to begin with. I have gotten some shade by accident in PR and here in FL riding a SB and gotten out but no spit. I have a scar on the inside of my foot from my fin on my LB when I got barreled once and got chewed up. Sliced me right open. I patched it up and surfed another 3hrs. Good times.
Much respect if you stand tall, get stuffed, and then get destroyed! Way better than turning straight.
Same thing happened to me, held on inside the barrel too long, then went through the wash cycle with my board right next to me. Skeg filleted my calf, the kind of deep wound that doesn't even bleed at first, then it starts gushing and won't stop. Got patched up, but to this day my biggest problem getting barreled is that I dive forward off my board at the first of trouble, my instinct is always to get the fark away from my board, but to really get a good deep barrel and escape from it, ya need to hold on when your mind is saying "Bail out!!!".
Yup, you see the slice of meat filleted open and no blood, then it won't stop. Fins are the devil I tell ya.
Caught three solid waves this evening then a viscous front stomped in and wrecked the good time. Nothing like the spray blind drop hoping your still in the honey hole. Sometime yup and other times it was Nope lets roll up the windows!!!! Hahaha good times!
http://rideoftheweek.surfline.com/ Pretty nice blow out and a great example of how rare getting one like that can be (read Q and A). Dana seems like a pretty righteous dude.
I remember long ago but not far away, I got a big left from way outside, all the way past the jetty that emptied me into the inlet and when I made it back to the lineup this guy paddles up to me with big eyes and says, "Dude, you must be living right, you just got the biggest barrel." To be honest, I didn't feel like I was that deep. And I was partying all day err day. My first time I got spat out was at Cape Hatteras Lighthouse, it was TOH outside, my board was only 5'9", all the locals were riding 7 to 7'6" guns. So I hit the inside, still way OH and just spitting, I never saw spit on a wave before, I was 19, and it was my first trip to OBX, and my buddy had a polaroid, so I had to go, even though I was shitting bricks, it was breaking so hard and so fast. I went, got pitted and spitted, and Brian got the shot of me afterwards out on the shoulder, it was still about 9 foot of face. I remember that better than my first time getting laid, I can't even remember her name, lmao.
No, San Diego and I was 14. And she was not your typical Maria Juarez. Blonde curly hair and blue eyed PAWG, didn't speak a lick of espanol. At a friend's party while his folks were out of town. Glad she knew what she was doing because I didn't have a clue. Saw her later at our 20 year reunion, she had a great set of mom humps and angelic face. Totally got ruined by my wife who decided to attend.
