book recomendations

Just finished Scratching the Horizon by Izzy Paskowitz. Well worth it to me as I'm a fan of both Izzy and Doc, so on that vein, Surfing and Health by Doc Paskowitz. Read In Search of Captain Zero on a trip to Cali last summer...another must read. someone mentioned Hemmingway. Been working through an anthology of his works....and now I know the mystique and allure. Finished The Sun Also Rises, For Whom the Bell Tolls, and A Farewell to Arms. All engaging on the highest levels. Enjoy!

 

Subjective but...yup I feel the same way. Some good non surf ones I have read lately
Slaughterhouse Five (Dude lives life past, present, and future simultaneously)
Catch 22 (War in a weird way)
DMT the Spirit Molecule (brain chemicals & enlightenment...will blow your mind)

 

Crossings by Michael kew was a good book about surfing

 

+1 on The Spirit Molecule

 

+1 for Tapping the Source, best surf novel ever written. Same author, Kem Nunn, wrote another novel with surfing called Tortilla Flats. Check out Tim Winton's Breath, another great NOVEL about surfing by one of Australia's best living authors. Weisbecker's Captain Zero is another great read and Kook definitely made me want to give it all up, move to Baja and . . . marry a beautiful Asian girl who also surfs! The Wave is a combination of nonfiction about rogue waves and every other chapter is an adoration of Laird Hamilton.

Isn't there one called "Caught Inside" or "Trapped Inside?" That was a NON novel.

 

ya i believe we covered this topic recently. i got a few solid recommendations, including cosmic banditos that i just finished reading and was awesome. it has nothing to do with surfing but i highly recommend it to anyone with a sense of adventure (which i think includes most surfers). another recommendation was west of jesus, which i'm gonna start reading today

 

With The Old Breed, EB Sledge
Blood Meridian, Cormac McCarthy
Thank you Dr. Kevorkian, Vonnegut
Memory of fire (trilogy), open veins of latin america, Galeano
Fully Empowered, Neruda
Sea of Thunder, Thomas

 

The Cruise of the Snark by Jack London.

Jack London was surfing with the native Hawaiians in 1911 before it was cool.

 

I liked Tijuana Straits by Kem Nunn also...

 

Surfing or native hawaiians?

 

Good call +1...Also Helmet for My Pillow R. Leckie...if you're going down that road not as dark as Old Breed or Thin Red LineJ. Jones... really dark/ disturbing... Pacific WW2 History was my major in college... those books are close to my heart ...my great uncle I spent a lot of time with growing up was 1st Marine Division from 1942 through Korea and Vietnam.

 

I guess both...it was actually 1907 though. My bad. The book isn't about surfing but London's trip on the Snark. His description of surfing is a highlight of the book.

 

waves and beaches by willard bascom is really good if you want to get technical as he explains a lot concerning the ocean

 

Its an unpayable debt we owe those men and women.

 

Why would you major in Pacific WWII History? What kind of job do you have now? Military Lawyer?

 

Major: History. Focus: WW2... in particular pacific theater (everyone has a focus...something they are constantly researching and writing about for grades, academic journals, professional conferences, and eventually a thesis) Job I got from this endeavor in particular: none...but I was a double major with education so I taught school for a few years. I did however travel to some cool places and 10-12 years ago when there were considerably more WW2 vets around, interviewed some amazing people... a USS Indianapolis (look that one up) survivor comes to mind...surfers maybe can in a small way grasp that one better than the general public

 

Since this thread has meandered a bit from the OP (meandering....it's what we do here) I'll toss three more into the winter ring of readership:

'Dispatches' by Michael Herr........the Vietnam War in a nutshell

'The Short Happy life of Francis Macomber' by Ernest Hemingway ........ the artist, Papa, and the story

'The Art of Racing in the Rain' by Garth Stein ..... love dogs? this is cover-to-cover hard to put down once you start

Enjoy

 

Definitely gonna check out The Art of Racing in the Rain...dogs are so much cooler than humans.

 

Nunn's second book is "Tijuana Straights" and is a great read. His third is "Dogs of Winter" and both of them are deep and dark with surfing being a theme through the book, but the stories are powerful and the character development intense. I call these books "surf noir." Love them! All for a few Perfect Waves was a great read, and Captain Zero was super fun, as much for the drug-running stories as anything else. Eddie Would Go is a must read as well.