Calii forecast

No thanks bro. Chicks dig it more when you're erect anyway.

Pretty stoked to get to the PNW tomorrow. Looks like they're getting plenty of love all weekend. Just need to bring the right stick.

 

I've got a low opinion on LB etiquette for all of Rhodey. One man's opinion, but across a few dozen sessions of data.

 

Saw some pics of La Jolla absolutely bombing, looked like a big wave spot.

As far as this paddling debate, my .02 is as follows...for me, in terms of just paddling, it's a tad easier to gain momentum(again, in terms of just using my arms) on a shortboard. In terms of actually paddling out, idk, I guess it's what you're used to, but I'm way more at home on my sponge. I can duck dive deeper, have the benefit of my fins if I have to jam to get outside, or if it's a mellow day I'll just cruise on the paddle and give my legs a break. I feel way more amphibious and I like that.

I will say that I rode a log a bit in the summer time, and I did not like the feeling of that. Not knocking longboarding, I think it's awesome, just felt like I was backing up a friggin oil tanker when putting myself in position. Think I'm gonna get myself a fish for the gutless summer stuff.

 

Is that why you're surfing brah?

 

Absolutely...paddling race LB will win hands down. I just prefer the actual 'paddle out' on me sponge.

 

Gotcha.. I was just assuming with the fins and the small board it would be easier to punch through on big days...
It's much easier to get out on a shorty than a LB on a big day.

 

I would agree with this also...again, I suppose it's a personal difference sorta thing...I find that my most successful duck dives happen when I have a few yards to really get a burst of speed, which is what the fins are obviously designed for(short powerful bursts)...sometimes I dive so deep I can touch the bottom.

I guess I'm differentiating b/t paddling and the paddle out.

 

You got it bro. It's why I'm out charging New Year's swell in single-digit degree air and steady wind - I heard the wahines are lined up on the shores in two-pieces for those days. Same for when I'm crushing pavement at midnight on a weeknight when it's a balmy 12F. I've been waiting, bro, but still haven't seen any tail scoping out the surfers and skaters outside this winter. Still confident they'll come around. Has it been too cold or something this winter, bro? Haven't noticed, too stoked.

Nice job editing my post in yellow journalistic fashion. Why do you sponge, bro? For the vibrations and flow of water below the belt?

 

How many bros would a bro-chuck chuck if a bro-chuck could chuck bro.

 

You can ride an LB on the right day. Chest and smaller and it's not dumpy like the pics you see... The pics everyone sees are from the best barrels, because that's what people want to see. Not every jetty is a heavy barrel...
I have been on an LB since I moved to Jersey. More in to short, thick stubby boards these days (like my women).

 

There was actually a dude out on an lb at my go to, which is really a sponge/sb wave...steep, fast, and hollow. It was about chest high and real sloppy, double ups and all, and this dude was killing it on his log. I was quite impressed.

 

dudes even in big macking 14 ft surf ill take out my log, when I catch the wave im so hard that the wave instantly spits in half and I no long have anything to ride. but even on a big day if you paddle fast and out during a lull providing its not 15ft @6s youll making it if you do get smashed by a clean up set on the way out which is always fun. I honestly have a problem ducking my 7,0 that is kinda thick at times. anything under I am fine. I guess some people can duck logs though.

 

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