Got out Wednesday evening and yesterday morning. Chest high, but terrible conditions. I was the only a-hole in the water for as far as the eye could see. Usually if anything is cracking ill see a couple other hungry cats out there. Cold, windy and eerie. At least I am going to the golf tournament all weekend. In my ridiculous plaid pants. The surf is flat all weekend anyway. Kahuna Kai: Aren't you down in the JAX area.... you guys have waves today? I had the opportunity to go down there for work today, but I wouldn't have gotten home til midnight so I said f that.
I'll watch everyone have fun while I work my life away at my cube farm... Everyone surf at the surfersview cam beaches! Spell out words in the sand! We can play Hangman! See you at 5:30
Same deal everyday for me: Paddling my "private beach" awesome spot at nice warm, sunny lunch-o-clock if there's anything. Going for a run on the beach if not. Next week is forecast to be firing. I was chatting with a guy when getting out the other day. When I told him I was surfing here on my lunch break he said "Best. Life. Ever." He was totally right.
Got it chest high and decent Wednesday eve, and it was VOS here yesterday, super blown out. My buddy broke 3 ribs fishing offshore when he slipped and fell on a rail. Tomorrow is supposed to offshore chest high fun and frivolity. Have a great weekend you bunch of ( fill in the blank ).
In CA bruddah, and it's as long as I want it to be. Usually 60 minutes for a run, 90 minutes (20 of those being getting from the desk/clothes to in the lineup/wetsuit and back again), but sometimes 3, or just the rest of the day, when it's firing.
I was on my way to Mase when you posted this thread... Best session I've had so far this year by far, and also the longest. It didn't necessarily qualify as Epic Mase but it was most definitely Classic Mase. My arms are noodles.
Solid today. CH-HH and super peaky. Lots of ramps. Glassy to light sideshores putting some texture on it. Too much tide and too little swell for much barrel action beyond a few fold-over spitters. Slabby down pointside way, but serious backwash from the seawall.