Calling y'all out!

great pic!
and yea didn't Christ take it in both hands AND both feet?
lol...oh sh$t it's EASTER!! I'm going str8 2 hell!

 

and oh double sh$t isn't it also A. Hitler's birthday? I'm going to Nazi Hell!

 

ill give your once credit for my sister since that pic made me laugh, good job.

 

Got skunked today. Buddy said it was blown, so I just ran down to the beach instead of surfing. When I got there it was OH+, heavy, semi-glass! Oh well. Tomorrow will be good too. As will the rest of the week.

On a side note, I just found some old photos of a big SW day at a very heavy beachbreak. Check this action out. I can't believe I paddled into that crap! That beach is still here, but I rarely surf it anymore. Just about every session was a beatdown.

A few seconds away from getting mauled. But what a sandy tunnel to behold!

 

Not so great today. Caught a tiny window between the bizarre onshores we've been having. Unfortunately, a NW windswell was crossing up the SW pretty badly and making it just kind of a low tide mess. Got a few decent ones. The NW flow set up a massive longshore that dragged me around the point and I had to tenderfoot it back. Oh well, better than not paddling out. Blew the heck out as soon as I got out. CH-HH semi-glass to semi-chop.

 

Nice day today. Heavy HH slabs down at the point. Got shacked off my nut. Plenty of beat-downs going on too. Light texture from sideshores, sunny, and warm.

 

Stuck in columbus ga for work. There supposed to be a river wave here but I haven't found it. Didn't bring a board anyway. Bout to get my flow on at the skatepark though.

 

This ^^^^^^^ +1k

 

Chunky today. Started out with some very solid HH+ sets. Storm is coming in, so winds on the outer waters made it kind of funky. Got a few good ones and one left-hand death-pit. Tide dropped and the sandbars got all funky. Kind of rippy. After I took one in, a pair of whales cruised the lineup blowing and fluking. Pretty friggin' awesome! Oh, there were also dolphins leaping clear out of the water just before I paddled in. Not the greatest day for surf, but still ended up pretty nice.

 

420 has a lot of history.national weed day,hitlers birthday,the day the 2 kids shot up columbine.easter came on the wrong day

 

Passed on it today. There were some guys out, and it looked okay, but I'm spoiled. There's still too much short-period west windswell in the water, and it's causing the groundswell to be really peaky and either mush or close out instead of lining up like usual. It would have been fun, but just too much work. HH+ and peaky. Short rides. Moderate sideshores. Also too much tide at lunch. May dawn patrol tomorrow in the hope of cleaner surf.

 

Skinned it today for the first time this year. Mostly waist to chest dumpers but caught one that lined up and got four good turns on it. Loved not wearing the rubber but Im paying for it with a nice painful rash.

 

Yeah, I went for a swim after skim boarding on Sunday up here on Hilton Head Island and the water temps read 67, but it for sure felt like 70+. It was sunny and in the 80s, but the water felt perfect with no suit on. I was surprised. I usually don't get into trunks until its consistently in the 70s, but it felt great.

 

Solid, but too much drift/wind. CH-HH and clean with texture. Cold-azz water! Got a few fun ones. Constant paddling to stay in position. A pod of dolphins surfed a outside set wave right at me! Those are some big, fast, sea critters.

 

WH-CH+ today and clean. Still blowing sideshore and drifting, but not as bad as yesterday. My last wave was a solid left. Dropped in, beat a section, big cutback on a clean face, stall stall stall up top in the pocket, accelerate down the face, frontside 360, rebound off the foamball and then glide right on in to shore. Satisfaction. Sunny and hot with blue water and dolphins.

 

Way too small down here, only 6-8 foot faces. I only go out in DOH +, so I can spend some time in the "Green Room".

 

Word to the wise. If you live in California, it's not very good etiquette to post the daily surf report on here. It gets people upset after a while. When people are reminded that it's chest to head high all the time, and you are deciding whether or not to go out, it makes people start to wilt inside. I was once in your position, being the guy sharing his stoke with everyone, but man, I am now on the other side of the spectrum and I understand why people eventually said, look dude, keep it to yourself. I get it, there are waves every day...

Cheers though, sounds like you had a ton of fun.

 

Damn, where else can I talk about my sessions if not on a surf forum? I don't really get into complaining about politics or whatever. It's going to be flat next week. Probably. We'll also have some flat spells in the summer and I can get all jealous about your hurricanes.

When I lived on the EC, I got a decent amount of surf, especially in the spring, winter, and fall. There were months when I would paddle out 2-3X per week for the entire month. I was behind the cape, though, so a lot of the summer south swells from hurricanes and "tradewinds" got blocked. NE'ers were the ticket, which meant some snowy paddlouts. I think I still have my 3 mil gloves somewhere...

 

Ohh, it's all good brother. I love to hear it. Also, remember the hurricane season is the same time on the west coast. The fall used to be my favorite time of year out there. Plenty of swell and great weather....

Cheers. It is great to hear that you are having fun out there though. Enjoy.

I was the same way back in the day. Just stoked all the time, and there is NO ONE talking on the west coast portion of this forum, so I was always talking to the mid-atlantic guys and stuff. There are only like 5-10 people on here that post from CA and it's usually not in the west coast forum. There is a reason there aren't too many people on the internet surf forums from the west coast... ya know? Its called waves.

 

Where do you live in California? The OC?