I know, I didn't pick all SI folks. If we got anybody on here, certainly not me, who can get barreled like Gerry Lopez or Mark Cunningham, I'll sub ya in. Maybe dreams do come true. Time to go buy me a lotto ticket.
This dude has a proper outlook on the ocean. There's lots of days that it just don't work out there on a board, but it's a blast without one. I know it ain't gonna get you a clothing line, Hindu models, and what not. You'll get a LOT more tired in a couple hours. Water will be pourin outa your nose at very unexpected times for a lot of the day. But, hey... It sucks. Stay home. Let me have it all to myself! When you're bodysurfin, it's always OH+. [video=youtube;lZL4gvC7OAs]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lZL4gvC7OAs[/video]
Always good to have a backup plan. Sailing, fishing and spearfishing are always good options to get you in and around the water when the waves don't cooperate. I've learned NEVER try to force it to happen if it's not meant to be. That's how accidents happen.
Mark Cunningham is a guru. Who knew? I never heard him interviewed, but always admired him for his lifesaving and bodysurfing prowess. Thanks for the post ibc! Very inspirational.
Thanks, man. I like his spirit. Bodysurfing is definitely a good alternative to the board for me. I can ONLY speak for me. Sometimes, I do it because the surf is a little weak, and I do not own a full on log. Other times, go full opposite end of the spectrum. The wind gnar is just so hostile and blown out, that I just don't feel like gettin beat up tryna get outside with a board. Paddle through white water and currents for 15 minutes for a 3 second ride. I can stay on the inside, where it's easily chest high, and find some juicy power nuggets to dive into. With a pair of fins, I can take nearly unlimited waves on the head. I can swim real good underwater. When the right wall of gnar arrives, it's time to go flyin. So actually, I bodysurf when it's too rough to surf, AND when it's too gutless. Like Mr Mark, I am grateful than I can still do so. Never EVER take that for granted. Ever.
I love the days when I decide to catch one in, put the board in the sand, and do the Maytag cycle in the shore pound for a while. It's an adrenaline rush, and as Mr. C sez, a very pure form of wave riding, totally unencumbered, free.
first off 3 people isn't enough well since the swellies stopped and we're picking real people,id go on a trip to nias with slater,bruce irons,dean Morrison,and bobby Martinez.
LOL Hey, half o' my crew are Swellies. Betty ain't only a Swellie, she's met lots of folks on here IRL. And Mitchell too. I don't know if any of y'all met him or not, but he can TAKE some dang pictures. So, sorry if I broke the rules. Half way kinda sorta. Oh, I forget who mentioned it, but a big ass trimaran sailboat orta get worked in there somehow too. Silent cruisin.