Car troubles...

first try to get off virtually scott free by checking the belt...

 

ok heres another hail mary pass from an ex-cab driver....
get under the car and WHACK the starter with a metal bar. 2 or 3x.
i know.....but i've seen it work more than once.

 

If it were your alternator the car would jump and run fine, but need to jump every time. So I don't think it's that.

Voltage sounds good on the battery. Sometimes the terminals are corroded! I have had your exact situation, only caused by corroded terminals. I used to keep a terminal cleaner in my glove.

Disconnect them clean them as well as you can, if you don't have a good ole' wire brush, sandpaper will work as well (ding kit in car? fist of sand + a rag?). Put the cables back on and try to start it, then try to re-jump it. Give it a lot of time to absorb juice, while revving the other engine at a safe rpm.

If that still fails, you can go with the Baddy TP approach. I wouldn't call it a hail mary, more like a 3rd and 10! Have a buddy help. If you don't know where the starter is, locate it by having him start it while you listen for the clicks.. I always tapped it with a hammer/tire iron, but you could 'WHACK' it too, haha.

Good luck Leety

 

It's about damn time you cats started seeking automobile advices here on the SI. At some point, everyone will realize this forum is better than a life coach. All problems solved here.

 

Battery test is a good call. But it can't to hurt to clean the terminals anyway. Gouge the sh*t out 'em till they shine- even if you can't see built up corrosion, if they're not shiny, it could be that.

I would call up Shred for some help but he only knows about Benz's & Teslas.

 

start car , pull battery cable off the battery while car is running , if the car stalls then its the alternator .

 

Exactly.

If you can jump start the car- it could be the battery or the alternator. The battery is only used to start the car- the alternator is like a generator- it provides the elecric to the car while running and recharges the battery. So if you have to continually jump it and it doesn't stay running- it's the alternator.

Sometimes just measuring the voltage is not accurate cause there is no load on the battery.

Most times having the jumper wires connected correctly is the problem. Corrostion or ground connection. Try putting the ground on a metal part of the engine instead of the battery. If you see sparks it's a good signs.

You may have to let the battery charge up for a while with the jumpers connected and the other car running. Like 5 min. Specially with the cold.

If your sure that you got a good connection with your jumper wires and you let is sit for a while to charge- and it still won't start- could be your starter then. More likely to be a battery with the cold. 2nd alternator (or belt- if the belt is there!) 3rd - starter. After that your looking at your electrical system and fuel system... Take it to a mechanic at that point

 

If you have a second car- take out the battery and connect it to you car instead of using jumper cables

 

get your volt meter and put the red or positive on the stud that holds down the cable (red) on the back or side of the alternator and put the black wire to the negative battery terminal . With the car running is should read 13.8v or more . True the lights on or heater the voltage should down slightly and when you turn them off the volts should come back up . If you have high voltage then you amps are low and vise versa . Best thing to do is you you can get it to a advance auto they can hook there analyzer on it

 

is there gas in the car?

 

Injector fuse?
Ignition spark?

What kinda car is it? Will help in isolating the usual suspects

Also... Have you considered security disabling injectors? (Newer cars all have that - bad key and boom) one time I had a plug come loose on the ignition switch and viola - your symptoms

Aftermarket remote starter/security system? Check batteries/wires/ignition coils?


More info bud.

 

If your battery is at least 12.4 volts without the car running, your battery *might* be OK. Are your headlights bright, or dim? Either way, here's a quick way of checking.

1) Clean terminals well, then reconnect. If your car doesn't start, go to the next step.
2) Take your battery down to the FLAPS (Friendly Local Auto Parts Store). They can do a Load Check on the battery for free. Sometimes a battery will show the correct amount of voltage, but can be internally damaged and is no longer good.

If the battery checks out, then the problem is most likely between the battery and the starter (hence, the "click"). Your starter is not getting enough juice to crank the solenoid.

Generally, there is an additional wire/cable that is attached to the main Positive battery cable. This runs back to your starter. Check that cable at the battery, make sure it is spotlessly clean and well connected.

Then you will need to check the wires to your starter...the large one comes from the battery as previously mentioned, and probably a smaller wire that is connected to the solenoid. Make sure you disconnect the Negative battery cable before you start fooling around under there, or you will get a hella Zap. Make sure they are very clean and very well connected.

Some cars (mostly Ford) also have a "relay" in between the battery and the starter. If you have a relay, those can be tested as well.

Your car will start with a bad alternator, as long as you have sufficient juice from the battery. An alternator basically takes over the electrical operation of the engine after it has been started by the battery. A bad alternator will not do this, and your engine will subsequently suck all the juice out of the battery...therefore, you would not be getting over 12 volts during a test.

Last thing: if you get the car started, use a voltmeter on the battery while the car is running. If your battery is testing under 12 volts or over 15 volts while running, your culprit will be a bad voltage regulator.

That is all.

 

Alternator replenishes the battery when it drop below optimum voltage due to increased demand for amps. When amperage is not in demand it replenishes voltage to the battery.
You can do a load test on the started of your volt meter is able to handle the amperage or has a amps setting. Batteries can read good voltage for have a bad cell in them making it unable for supply amps needed for starting or be able to charge . It make read 12volts but that is just a Static Charge and is unable of handling a heavy load such as Starter , or lights

 

sounds like the starter,listen to baddy hes right,u have to whack it,and hit it hard.if its a stick shift u can pop the clutch.roll down hill and pop that bytch

 

im not too smart with car repairs,but my brother is a full time mechanic and iv had just about every thing that can go wrong with a car go wrong.

I had a geo prizm many years ago,like early 2000s,and the starter went.at the time I lived on a steep hill so all I had to do was put the e brake down,roll,and pop the clutch and I could get to work.after a while it completely stopped working.

we tried a new battery,I put 2 new(used,from junkyard) starters in,still nothing.I was ready to give up hope.then my brother had some little pointy looking prong thingy he was jamming into the relay boxes or whatever they are under the hood.all of a sudden the car started right up perfectly,just by touching whatever it was.so yea could be a relay,I really have no clue how they work or to test them,but youd be surprised how much a little thing like a relay can make a difference

 

Good sh!t guys.

Additionally your alt belt shouldn't be twistable beyond a 1/4 twist or it's too loose.

Tap don't beat the starter.

Check the non terminal end on your neg cable for tightness.

Body to block ground for tightness.

Starter ground for tightness.

Check all starter connections for tightness, they can vibrate loose.

Check all alternator connections for tightness.

Check regulator connections for tightness.

Check for damage to wires for all of the above.

The rest, everyone else got.

Good luck! Let us know how you make out.

 

Testing that relay is simple. The relay sits on the firewall between the battery and the starter. The cable that runs from the battery to the starter is interrupted by the relay.

During a no-start scenario, take a long (8"-12") screwdriver (it doesn't matter if it's straight-slot or Philips, you will only use the shaft).

There are 2 electrical prongs on the relay. Use the screwdriver to bridge the gap between the 2 prongs. Be careful, it will throw a good Zap!!! When you bridge this gap between the 2 prongs, you are bypassing the relay. If the starter motor turns over, you have a bad relay. If it doesn't start, you most likely have a starter issue or a short in the wires to the starter.