Can anyone comment on whether or not too much volume could be a bad thing on choppy days? I have a 6'0 x 20 x 2.5 firewire spitfire that rides great in clean surf but feels like it cannot dig in a rail on choppy days. Is that b/c of the volume and/or the epoxy construction of the firewire? Would a 6'2 x 19.25 x 2.375 stretch rat skate (poly) possibly be a better choice in choppy conditions if it doesn't float as much to absorb the chop? Also, could the extra float actually make paddling tougher? I believe LBcrew has commented on these topics before..... Please advise to the extent you can. Thanks.
In my opinion you should ride what you like and you feel comfortable on. Tough to know. Every choppy day is different. You need to match the shape of the board to the shape of the wave brah.
It is always a pain paddling when it's choppy no matter what. A floatier board means you're out of the water more and can avoid the chop on your face and can see easier, but thats all Ive found.
firewires and other ultra-light EPS boards are notoriously difficult in chop. Nothing is going to be great in chop, but heavier boards (usually poly) dampen the ride much better.
Thinner rails that are more foiled, and a board with less volume equals more control in bowly and bouncy sections. Narrower template, a thinner nose and more entry rocker equals easier duck diving and more control on bouncy, foamy drops - it won't get hung up and will get into smooth water quicker. So yes, the stretch rat skate you described would be a better alternative for choppy days. On the other hand, if you can shreddddd, a rocket fish will do the trick.
I agree with that. I have a whole garage full of boards that ride great in clean surf, and are difficult to surf in chop. There only so much you can do in terms of board selection to overcome crap conditions.
"There is only so much you can do in terms of board selection to overcome crap conditions." Pretty much sums it up. ...bowly and bouncy is different. Choppy conditions, all bets are off. I sure don't want to be on a big thick LB in choppy conditions!
Pretty much almost 80% of time its choppy here and i had a custom made that was a poly and extra heavy and pretty wide and it surfs great. My epoxy doesnt do well in those conditions either. I say go with the 2nd board.
Pretty much almost 80% of time its choppy here and i had a custom made that was a poly and extra heavy and pretty wide and it surfs great. My epoxy doesnt do well in those conditions either. I say go with the 2nd board.
I prefer EPS/Epoxy shortboards in small to medium surf... up to a foot or two overhead. What really helps is adding a little vee in the entry. I've also had good success with double concaves that are veed also. In other words... shape in the vee, then concave the panels.
