Did you surf on Xmas PADDINGTON HAS INSPIRED ME! I WENT SURFING I WENT SURFING I WENT SURFING Write stuff on this thread if you likes to surf the waves! Ok, since my 300th post was actually surf-related, I went out on the Eve after work. Initially I went out in the morning, but no one would join me (I try to limit lone experiences after my scare out alone past the pier in VB on the Thanksgiving Eve...it was humbling to say the least, but the waves were great before the winds went to hell around *15 that morning. No one could make it out. The fiendish pleasure I enjoyed up until the scare was priceless). The Current was moving due to the steady North winds. Ah, the North Winds always make a nice left wave for a regular footed chap as myself. I did go and investigate Croatan (I try to avoid the place, for I find I don't like parking in Wes Leine's yard). There were barrels in the water. They were not surfing barrels, but the kind that float. Something was knocked loose. No drugs in them, but someone was flashing a light in the water. The police investigated. There were no deaths to report...your welcome That afternoon (Xmas Eve for you Christians out there), I went out and scored some really fun waves. They lined up well, the winds were light and the rights were fun. There was a softness to them, yet they were wally, allowing for turns and cutbacks. Many will say they don't like those, but I had a great time. Go golfing. The peak placement was inconsistent, but those NNW winds sure do a number in the wonkiness of the VB wave. I always thought the Bay would enable those winds to do more for this place. There is an effect nonetheless and this day was a prime example. I must have been having too much fun. Some time before 5, 2 guys at the next break down paddled right over. Perhaps my wave, as Forrest Gump would say, was "magic". I got a magic wave Lt. Dan! Guys, that is so rude, especially when wearing a 3/2 backzip with new boards and no hood...I hope y'all are reading this. I was so nice. I only yelled at y'all once when ya almost dropped into me on an unmakeablewave. "My bad". No, your common sense is bad, but digress. Xmas Day was really fun. I only got out in the afternoon, but no competition from the heads in the water and I was able to get a nice lil tuck on the freak left. I can't wait to take a dip again. Let us all pray for this low pressure in the Gulf. Sacrifice to your pagan gods if you need to. Man, I love surfing. Joke me for living on the East Coast. There's something to ride just about every day. Everyone complaining...makes me sick. #DidntSurfBelmar
We are truly blessed KK. I got a good thumping today. It was incoming, then high, then outgoing tide but still fat and backwashy a bit. Head high peaks ( they will grow a foot each time I tell this tale ) and jacking up and brdaking fast - actually dumping - and there were lefts and rights. I got some good ones, and got into a right hand wall that was a speed wall - no turns until the shoulder was found - but no shoulder was found, just steep jacking warbaly walling up overhead section ( it keeps getting bigger ) that folded over my head. I could either straighten out and get pummeled, or go for the gusto. I got hammered. I pulled in but about a second later it collapsed on me and I got driven into the sandbar ( luckily I was not at the reef ). It was a blast, and I got a few more goodies that were longer but not that intense. You hit the nail on the head. East Coast is great because it sucks so often that when it is good it is memorable. And it has been very much rideable almost all the time, especially if you have the right equipment (a 13' log with a jet powered trolling motor). Happy Holidays! Stay wet my friend. #belmaristhesurfingmeccaofamerica #wherethe****isbelmar
AMEN! Sounds like you had fun. Beats sitting around and tweakin out all day. There has been swell in the water. I haven't checked, but have you been reaping the benefits of that longer period swell? Have you ever considered Belmar? Hell, aside from the high tide in the morning all last week, I've been using my Roberts exclusively. The East Coast has not been what it can be...FLAT. Don't compare this place to the West Coast, compare it to the Great Lakes. It could be worse. People inland dream of living at the beach. Don't be a spoiled American. These "I'm a punk rocker" folks crack me up. Don't be spoiled or Jerry Onley will slap you with his d**k. Your attitude will be much more positive. Pray for the North winds. That wind slop is our only hope for consistency unless a nice ridge of High Pressure parks itself ever so Southeast of Bermuda. That little swell has been the source of much enjoyment and clearer water and cleaner waves. They line up nicely. 757surfer knows what I'm talkin about. if there's too much size, many bars can't handle it. Oh wait, I want a 10 foot swell at 15 seconds...I'm realistic Please do not advocate the WaveJet. That will lead to the untimely demise of some unsuspecting human who knows no better. It will also be a sad day at your local break for you too. Stay wet? In more ways than one. Thanks dude. #BelmarHandlesLongPeriodSwellOhSoWell
squan srfr beach pumpers - and their 24/7 noise ruined my spot - you all can have it now - w/their brown water and disappearing effect (as in gone) on jetties…that was my xmas experience.
