Chronic Fear of "bigger" waves

its an understandable fear. Thing is, we dont get big waves here. Im more scared of the beating i take from a low tide day when its a little more powerful. I think staying in shape is the #1 thing.

 

nothing worse than going over the falls when its knee deep,which happens a lot.more size means water is a little deeper so its actually safer.but its still better than going over the falls when its knee deep over a reef

 

Hang in there dude, you'll figure it out. Thing is, just because I or others have been in bigger waves doesn't mean we don't have similar thoughts or feelings ever. I think everybody has moments of fear on those those type of days. Anybody who says it doesn't phase them is full of sh*t and just plain lying to you. Reality is we can die or get seriously hurt in ANY size surf, just takes one bad fall or one bad decision and it's over. So don't feel like you have to overcome anything to be on the same level as others, just do it for your self, if that's what you want of course, which it sounds like it is...

So go for it man, just be smart about it, people are telling you to just go on anything coming your way no matter what and I think thats cool and all but it's your life we're talking about here. I'm trying to decide where the line is for myself. I dont ever want to bite off more than I can chew, but at the same time I want to push my limits within reason. I don't know if I ever want to go much bigger than I've gone. I'm fine with it. But who knows, maybe one day that just isn't good enough to scratch the itch.

 

dear original poster: i feel the same way in winter time. i don't belong 100 yards offshore bobbing in oceanic chaos when the water is 35. the paddle out is what i hate the most. its a real sincere primal fear.

knowing your limits is awesome. it saves you pros from having to drag my ass out of the water.

 

Dirty Unc, what's up? I told Nick the same thing, mine is the paddle out on a big rough day. Something about that impact zone that starts to freak me out sometimes!

 

could you imagine how much less intimidating surfing would be if you didn't have to hold your breath underwater? i wouldn't have a problem charging belmar on a 23ft day

 

So maybe a jet ski assist would be in order - just get towed into a macking shade throwing behemoth? It's not the size of the face, although that is the first thing the senses lock onto, once you are out there, it is the volume of water, the force of the lip, the power of the underlying swell that factors into a split second decision. I would be much more likely to charge a big day with an easy entry wave with a inside barrel, than a Pipeesque air drop pig dog under the lip type takeoff, or a heaving slab with a warbly backwash. I used to like to eat it in heavy stuff just to do it, now now so much. I pick my spots and pick my waves much more carefully when it is big out. No shame in acknowleging your comort zone. I always like to push it a bit. My body hates my juvenile inclinations.

 

^^^+1000...you got that right. Last Thursday up here I got hammered a few times, felt it the day after big time.

 

Was in Rodanthe a few years ago, with buddies one of whom is unsponsored pro, does the east coast contests from time to time.

It was 'cane swell that day, and the Atlantic was huge & it was a mess. Shore pound was OH & nasty. If you surf 'cane swell on the right coast you know how the view can get.

We watched 3 people, mid-20's, come striding across the beach. Two dudes & a chica. Doing that Volcom ad poseur BS, not looking at anyone, staring straight ahead at the ocean just the 'we're-hot-and-you're-not' flaunting cheeky walk.

So, anyways, our buddy the pro takes his chip & runs into the ocean, duck dives too many times to count, finally catches a rip & starts riding beasts way out there.

The 3 models paddle out. They actually get out, but not as far out as our buoy. Big difference in what happens next. The chica paddles for, and catches, a steep growler, maybe 15', who knows, huge. She gets utterly blasted as she tries to go down the non-existent ramp & gets buried under a ton of Atlantic closeout. Next thing we see is her literally making her way out of the surf line on all fours, head just hanging down in concussed mode. Biff & Baff paddle in, getting pounded on the way but not as badly as her, help her to her feet & sort of half walk, half drag her as they all sagged off to the parking lot.

Now, I don't know wtf their stories were that they told from that day. But the moral of that story is know your abilities & know your limitations. 'Cause we all got the latter. But, young & dumb & full of cum is just that.

Beer tasted good that day. And I didn't even paddle out.

 

my big wave 'what went wrong' stories involve stiffs.
not gonna tell 'em.

 

yep the Gonzalo swell here last year that a.m was beautiful glassy 2-4ftwaves no wind at all and building but long set intervals..by that afternoon wind had picked up tide was incoming and the waves had built to 5-7 if not more...i switched to bodyboard and just rode the mush as most the waves were closing out,i guess word had spread of the swell and everyone was trying to paddle out in their shortboards and getting trashed just trying to get out..timing was key to that swell,

 

you can be an unsponored pro?

 

Uh, yeah. It's called pay your own way. Just don't take any funding from the insaane1.

 

A video worth watching. Caught inside at Todos Santos. If you watch the guy is never under water for more than a few seconds even though the waves are pretty big. Just best to relax and go with it.

http://thescuttlefish.com/2015/02/t...ings-caught-inside-on-camera-at-todos-santos/

 

Your sessions in Barbados refreshed your posts, enjoyed the story especially the last sentenced, have not heard that quote in long time

 

I have this problem, while not as bad as you have it, one thing that helps me get over the anxiety is longboarding. In my neighborhood, the driveways are raised about 7-10 ft from the road, and while not as steep as a wave, they are not gently sloping. these things drop. i try to build up as much speed as possible, drop and carve across the face of the bottom of the driveway, turn up to the next driveway, skid my rear wheels, turn and come back the same way. its about reflexes, finding a good line, and not bailing. I tell my friends if you can relax on the concrete there is no reason you can't keep calm facing a big drop.

 

That's because, G-Man, we are of a certain age & thus no longer young & dumb & ...