Close Calls

Thank you to those who had some thoughtful responses here. Perhaps others were misunderstanding some of my statements and description of the day's events although I tried to depict it as accurately as possible to get some valuable feedback. I was also looking for recall of events some of you have had that were similarly intense and ones you learned from.

For those that think I took this guy out flying by the seat of his pants and telling him to go into the 5-footers for fun, simply not the case. At this beach break, there are a variety of waves and sets and areas that differ much from one another on any given day. 4-5 feet of clean breaking waves was the upper limit of what that day and time had to offer. I'm recalling 5.2 as what that day was listed as but that was the early AM height and we went out towards mid-day when it was scheduled to recede progressively with time.

When we headed out, it was for the purpose of developing his balance on the board, paddling, duck diving, and for smaller clean waves with moderate power to paddle into them and bodyboard to feel the lift of the wave and know when the right time to pop up (in much later sessions) is. At no point was there any intent to thrust this guy into anything above 3-4 in height or with any chop.

When we paddled out back, it was through 2-3 footers that had plenty long period for recovery in between if he didn't handle it well at which point we could've turned back in and rode the white to the shore. I asked him on each wave we duck dove or paddled over the top unbroken if he was good to keep going and he answered that he was, and I was really listening more to what I saw which was that he was, in fact, keeping up and handling it well and really enjoying it.

Once we got out back, it was to take a rest and to show him and explain to him the sequence of waves and how and when they break and where and when we want to be when we try to catch one. After that, we were then going to head back in towards the shore and work on reps of paddling into much smaller waves (2-2.5ft) than the biggest the day had to offer. Those waves near the shore I am talking about are at a depth where we'd be able to stand on the bottom between waist and chest height when standing on the bottom.

This beach is about a quarter mile wide (400 yards or so) that have an island on one side and a rock jetty on the other. We headed out right in the middle where there were no hazards and waves that were not going to change much from one minute to the next. I believe the precursor to the sideshore is what started to drift us over to the rocks. We were still outside 100 yards from the rocks when I told him we needed to go back towards the middle and get with our other buddies and practice on the waves nearer to the shore. At no point did I plan, intend, or allow for us to be dabbling with the rocks. It was the wave he tried to catch after I told him that we needed to head back towards the middle and away from that area that brought him over into the rock domain.

If the least common denominator of the day was the possibility of him making a choice on his own outside of what I was directing him or us to do, and the consequences of his free will decision and action, then I take full responsibility for that. If not for the very quick wind change and therefore change in conditions on that part of the beach that we didn't even intend to be around or involved in, the conditions would have remained such that we could navigate and choose to interact with freely in a way that control and safety was constant. As someone else posted, sometimes nature decides on a whim to throw something totally different at us than what looked to be predictable.

The 7-8 footers that occurred there were in a 100 foot (not 100 yard) stretch as a result of a rapid-onset sideshore current (not in the forecast at all) plus it's location at the rock jetty. This friend was not taken into OH-DOH conditions, thrown on a gun that he couldn't paddle on let alone pop up or ride on, and expect to be smacking lip like he was born with it. Please note that I've also seen that area near the rocks swell to steep conditions out of nowhere on days that had 1-2 footers and mush on the rest of the beach. So basically, while this is a break that many people of all abilities surf regularly and safely, we could've ended up in a similar situation on a day that had just above a flat forecast if we got improbably pulled into this 50-100 foot area on what is a 1600+ foot wide beach. Albeit, on such a day I would imagine the volatile zone of sideshore would be 4-5 feet smashing up against the rocks and with much less power.

As for inflated sense of ability, I'm not sure where that came from. I'm a 33-year old grom that has a fiery stoke that brings me out there daily to get better in all ways and to truly progress at a fast rate you need to have a mindset that you always have so much to improve on. That is the way I think daily. In my original post, I stated that given my recent level of commitment to high volume of daily/weekly water time and keeping it anaerobic nearly the whole time out there, I don't think I may have survived the 15 minutes of fury I ended up in. That's a fact. This was the 14th consecutive day I was on the water and the first 7 of those days were when it was cranking clean daily here and I totaled 20+ hours that week including a 7 hour day across 4 sessions. Very little of this is sitting in a lineup. It's predominantly spent paddling hard, getting through white to reach out back, and then sprint paddling in attempt to catch waves at a fairly steady rate. Every time I step into the water it is with complete humility for the reality that we are all ants in the sheer power of the ocean's strength and will. If me stating that I've logged serious quality training time for the last couple months in an effort to ready myself for all conditions is taken by some of you as a statement of grandiosity that I should be joining the ASP tour tomorrow, then I can't help how you read into things. Take out the last few months of full physical and mental commitment to this sport, yet still put me in Sunday's situation and there's a 90%+ chance I wouldn't be here to post this now.

Neither was I overstating my friend's ability of surfing out of the womb. Considering that less than 5% (perhaps still generous) of people that set stomach on a board and paddle out for the first couple times run marathons and do not have at least some inkling of the assault and battery the ocean can give you, it's tough to argue that my friend is a good candidate to bring out there and help learn. Never said he was going to innately shred OH+ green. A guy who's got a diverse background of high commitment, skill, and conditioning and a competitive mindset is a preferable blank slate for someone to take along with you to share this great sport with. I'm sure you'd all rather someone like him by your side compared to the liability of some of the SUP physiques that are jeered at on here.

I take full responsibility for anything and everything that happened that day. I'm a "bottom line" type of guy, so if this was a result of taking an inexperienced friend out on a day that had any possibility of danger, then it's something I will not repeat. What I was trying to gather from responses to my original post is 1) what are your thoughts on the situation I described (I think we've got that); 2) what similar dangerous situations have you been in, whether or not calculated planning was made to prevent safety issues; 3) are we truly susceptible to nature's whimsical ways on most any given day? As said, I've seen that rock jetty start popping off like a volcano in a matter of minutes even on 1-2 foot days elsewhere on the beach. Unfortunately, we were unable to avoid it even when trying to when it popped off on this day.

For the excitable responders to this thread, I'm sure you've had your own learning experiences even in times where you made efforts to calculate the right decisions and outcomes. Please listen to the poster who talked about not turning people off from this forum. It's a great place to find others that understand why we get up at the azz crack of dawn to get smacked in the face with thousands of pounds of aqueous solution in search of those few seconds of bliss on rides in between. I'm out there every day now and in full effort and gratitude trying to take in as much as there is to be had on the water.

 

Wow. So many salty responses. Yet, several thoughtful responses from those sharing their own experiences and recognizing that there are lessons to be learned and conveying such without trying to parent or police anyone here in condescension.

leethestud, chicharronne, Uncle Irish, LB Crew, matilda, and a few others: thank you for the quality responses. That is the feedback that I was looking for. You are the reason I spend quite a lot of time on this forum these days. To learn from others and get support from those in the same culture that I'm privileged to be part of now. Please note that I will continue to follow this board and contribute where I feel it's appropriate. I'll be sure, however, to withstand the summer heat as I wear my 7mm boots year-round on this forum as to not have my feet cut up from constantly having to walk on eggshells from all the EMO Rhodes Scholars of surfing on here.

DISCLAIMER: Below in the next post are answers to specific responses people made, some of which were helpful and most of which were jabs. If this is too long to read, don't waste your time. Not sure how I'll be able to fit dinner in my mouth tonight as so many of you were stuffing it with words you claimed I used. Thanks for the free ventriloquist service!!!

 

Nice response bud. To make another look like a fool, it's not a good tactic to make yourself look like one. Let me know where I was stroking my own ego instead of factually stating that surf-specific training and conditioning is conducive to survival and success on the water. I guess Laird should not train for underwater apnea as it clearly is of no use to him when he gets held over on any big waves he misses. And you're right, I'd have been much better served in a crisis situation having no cardiovascular or muscular endurance whatsoever. To think I could've vaulted myself out of the water onto the rocks in an instant with a backflip if I only had 23% bodyfat! I'm strongly contemplating the McDonald's supersize 30-day diet and sedentary lifestyle after your helpful persuasion.

You're completely right about my abilities. What an underachiever I am to not be experienced in the paranormal. Next time I bring a beginner out, I need to wait until I've mastered the art of the Jedi Mind Trick so I can control the free will of others' choices and actions.

No. The critical height where I was taking him through to train basics (paddling, duck diving smaller waves, balancing on board, and attempting bodysurf takeoffs on small waves) was 2-4 feet of clean waves with mid to long period in between and at a depth where he'd be able to touch ground. I clearly explain how, when, and where things changed and why.

In 100% sincerity, yes, I agree it was an error in judgment given the need to always consider the least common denominator as I've mentioned in my previous posts in this thread. Yes, I have learned something and that is not to make that judgment call again.

Fact. Never did I say they were a substitute for experience in the water. They can be a helpful supplement to proper water training and experience. He had me there with him talking him through everything as well as my plan for what was appropriate, attainable, and realistic. As soon as the environment showed hints of anything otherwise, I gave immediate directives to vacate with specifics on how we'd do so.

Not sure if this is supportive or sarcastic. If supportive, thanks. That is consistent with some other recent posts of people appreciating the efforts, gratitude, and stoke that several newcomers have experienced.

If sarcastic, what's the issue? Although I'm out there every day logging dozens of weekly hours of water time in a constructive, planned, and progressive manner, I'm still new to the game and no matter how much I improve I will always have far more room to improve. I've got geniuses on here calling me a narcissist when I consider myself a grom.

The time I put to my posts is a representation of the commitment I'm making to this sport as well as the passion I have in anything I commit to. My second post in the thread was of great length to clarify facts of the event and rebut some narrow-minded responses, much like this lengthy post is. No one forces anyone to read anything on here they don't want to. If someone is pissed that they read a long post, that was their choice.

Probably the best post in this thread, at least for comic relief. NJ is so famous he sneaks into every thread. Yes, everyone takes their lumps and makes mistakes. This was a significant one on my end, though there are apparently dozens of forum members that have never made mistakes in their lives.

Correct. It wasn't that big for me. With the great weeks we've had here lately, I've been in 5-9 feet regularly much to my delight. 11 seconds is great also and much better than normal for here. That was the period for the waves in the middle of the beach, not by the rocks. Over at the rocks during the madness, they were coming at us in 2 to 3 second intervals. I made it through those (with difficulty), so let me know what else I can do to better prepare other than avoiding bad situations like that altogether. Oh wait, according to the majority of haters in this peanut gallery, training and preparation means little and denotes you as a narcissist.

See my above response to remind you of your right to refuse to read any and every post or written word in existence. Or consult the U.S. Constitution for a further reminder that you're not shackled in an all white room with nothing but a chair and this message forum being forced to read it.

Exactly. Yet, when I bring my friend out on the water with me, I take full responsibility for any outcome and even the choices he makes while being instructed otherwise. Honestly, much like your post hints, if I were in his place and was stoked to be out there in one of my first ever sessions, I'd have probably tried to catch that wave too. He just had no idea it would angle him right into the rocks and take him all the way there.

Exactly again. I know my limits although I test them regularly. We had two other experienced friends with us. I have been in big waves enough by now to know what's prudent and not. And that voice did speak to me when I saw the drift starting. FYI...the rest of your post was right on and excellent and just the input of others' experience I was looking for. I had to cut it out though to spare the handful of posters here that would rather not have their eyes poisoned by being forced to read too many words.

 

1) Point out to me where I say I didn't make a mistake. I have said half a dozen or more times I take full responsibility for what happened and have learned from it. The 3 (now 4) pages of posts you refer to are littered with disrespectful verbal diarrhea from legends such as yourself that changed the game. You clearly made the board round. Because, you know, boards were square before your divine hand came into the sport. Legally change your name at once to Duke Noll Hamilton!!!!
2) The sideshore is a fact of life and definitely a fact of that rock jetty occasionally to frequently. That's why I had no intention of us being near it at any point.
3) After the expertise shared by greats like you, I've given up any physical training that I once thought would benefit my overall health and surfing progress. So you won't have to worry about hearing anecdotes of my physical training.
4) Flippers? I'm sorry, did you say I was wearing flippers? Again...flippers? I must've read your words wrong since your brilliance rivals the Da Vinci Code and is impossible for ignorant kooks like me to fathom.
5) I was never in trouble until I headed over to the hazard area to give aid to my friend. Which was a necessity by default that I do take responsibility for.

If you don't surf, don't start. Right. So if you end up calling the shots, the surfer population will die off just about the time that the world's supply of fish does. Better enjoy your stoke boys, the surfing world's gonna end!

Well, Father, next time your neighbor njshredmachine and I come to your Church for the Sacrament of Confession, we will both seek absolution for our lives of remorseless sin and hope that you will still have a place for us. I know that you are very, very disappointed with me and for that I am deeply saddened and apologetic. Father, thank you for seeing through my hollow lies that I posed as statements on here repeatedly like "I take full responsibility" as they were clearly the words of Satan placed in my mouth.

Oh, by the way Father, while you're at it, you may want to edit that post before Sister Mary Clancy sees it for she will beat your hand endlessly with a ruler if she sees that you misspelled the word scary as "scarey".

It sure did get weird. I thought my parents stopped scolding me when I was mid-teens. And if "she" is worth having around at all, then "she" has no problem with it ever getting weird.

 

That's either a lack of looking at my username or making a play on El King de Shred en NJ.

 

Yes. We had a 7 day stretch in MA where it seldom got below 4, was published on forecast between 4.5-8.5 for 5 days straight and in actuality in some certain spots here they were breaking over 9. Between a storm, lunar forces, and fairly good swell coming in it made for a grand several days. Still is 2.5-5ft here each day although it's waning to around or below 3.