Around these parts you have to earn respect before you get it. You cannot demand it. Work that part into your life as my second recommendation to you.
I'm surfing every day because I love it. I love everything about it from learning the tides and breaks here, down to how elusive decent waves are some days to repairing my first dings the other night and doing a pretty good job at it. My commitment to an individual sport like this has nothing to do with the guy next to me and I've never indicated such. That is coming from you and it's not accurate. I'm putting forth the effort and enthusiasm each day because I don't engage in something unless I do it fully. It's who I am. That, and because of the fact there's always so much to learn and improve on in this sport, you'll walk off the beach much better each day than when you stepped on it as long as you maintained an open mind and sense of gratitude throughout the session. What do I have to show for the hours I've logged? You speak as if you're trying to talk me out of reverence and commitment to surfing. To answer your question, at the 90 day mark I can catch up to 50% of the waves I attempt from 2 footers to 9 footers, bottom turn frontside and backside, pump through whitewater to accelerate through it, duck dive larger waves, handle a wipeout from small to medium to large, paddle through tougher sets to get out back, etc. All those skills I can perform but in no way am I doing them all or most of the time or doing them soundly more often than not. Those are good basics but I still have many more basics next up such as angling into takeoffs better and more often, picking the right waves to catch based on their break, getting down the line consistently, getting back in the wave after a bottom turn, etc. To me, there will never be a point where I can't get better and learn more. Read some of my posts a couple weeks back when others were preaching about the stoke. There is nothing "pent" up in me, and definitely not when I'm involved in this great sport that I've recently found. It's laughable that I got tarred, feathered, and lynched in this thread yet when I finally put the dukes up it's looked at like it's me who's the angry, aggressive one.
What parts? The part where people are sitting behind a keyboard? Such formidable "parts" of society. How shall I "earn" this respect you speak of, so that I may not be subject to being talked to like a dog no one cares about or an ex-con? Your recommendations are like gold. Can I hire you as a life coach?
OK... Here's your feedback. If you can't handle the surf that is in front of you (no matter what the size is) don't go out. If chest high equals 7-8 foot then there was a ton of them..
Yup. Just take anything I say and mock it and throw it back to keep thinking you're coming out on top. So first I'm not having enough fun, now I'm having too much fun. At what point will you be satiated where you can STFU and sit down instead of throwing jabs? Make up your mind.
"These parts" are a pretty solid conglomeration of CoastalTown USA. Ever since SwellInfo desegregated the forums and let different geographic locations all play together on one forum we've been one big happy family. If you don't know how to earn respect on an internet forum I fear for your regular social interactions. I fear for the people that may have to interact with you more. Seeing a 33 year old man crying like a grom has got to be awkward and your inability to take any constructive criticism via the internet cannot bode well for face to face interactions. My recommendations are quite good if I do say so myself. As far as life coaching goes... I haven't really thought about it but I assume someone in your situation could gain some valuable knowledge. PM me if you're really interested in some life coaching.
Probably when I leave the desk and head home. You can look forward to me responding again this evening during my after dinner poo or sometime tomorrow. Gimme a PM about life coaching.... we'll skype or something.
That was awesome. The angst of some of the mud I've had to tread in this thread is a small price to pay for the multitude of comedy on this forum.
This seems like a good opportunity for you to consider why you are so amped up about surfing that you would risk your life and the life of your friend like that. I would liken it to almost ODing on a drug. It was awesome, then you did a little more and a little more and then too much. You got lucky. The lessons are obvious and you don't need us to tell you.
Maybe you have a good addiction counselor you can refer me to. Or better yet, be my addiction counselor! Wow. In 10 minutes I got a new life coach and a rehab therapist. I'll have to but a lottery ticket tonight.
Somewhere, Admin should make a Hall of Forum Fame. And this quote has to be an inductee. On another note, I don't know about you guys, but I'm heading over to AI manana to nail me some 23' 3/8" frothing barrels.
He doesn't speak for all of us.... Seriously though, Emass, I feel like you're getting pretty worked up on this. It's an internet forum. Relax. You don't have to "win" against any poster who says anything that could be construed as even remotely negative towards you. You've repeatedly stated you found several answers to be helpful and what you were looking for. Like any internet forum, wade through the BS and take what you will from it.
In the original poster defense, I think most of us have made some bad choices when “teaching” or even surfing with different people. Disclaimer: I have never attempted to teach someone how to surf next to a jetty on a decent sized day with a lot of current. On the other hand, I can name a dozen times that I have “tricked” or “begged” some of my “surfer” friends to paddle out with me in conditions that they had no business being in. Granted, they weren’t “beginners”, but they were used to surfing chest high days in the summer and some pretty mellow head high days out on the reefs. In order to not go out solo on huge days, many a times have I convinced buddies to paddle out. Most times, I look back to the beach and they never made it out, so that took care of itself. But there is one pretty epic time that I paddled out at Peskys with 3 surfers and I would call them “average at best”. 2 of them were marines, hell bent on not wussing out and the other was my best friend, who was a good enough surfer to make it out alive and get a wave or two… It was solid 8-10 foot peskys (and for the record, it can only hold about 8 feet max and then you have to find a more outer reef down the road because it breaks in very close to the cliffs and rocks)… The current and swell was so big that all three of them didn’t make it out and were actually caught in the impact zone for 5 minutes because they thought they saw a clearing in the sets and scraped out, and then the sets came and they were still inside but over a half mile out to sea. Anyway, long story short is that they all washed into the rocks up by Santa Cruz Avenue and one guy ended up all the way at the southside of the OB pier over a mile away…. A couple dings…. None of them caught waves, but were never in any real life threatening danger. Just a serious gut check. They just got slammed into rocks that are not a natural exit point from the water…. I only got 2 waves that session anyway cause conditions were very sketchy and the second wave I took because I needed a ride in because the sh** was firing all over the place. Funny on the one hand, but seriously shook them on the other hand… Every time after that, my best friend would suit up, go to the beach with me, leash up and when the surf was too big, he would just back out before the paddle out… I never pressed him after that. I just said, alright at least make yourself useful and operate thing camera. Lessons learned.
9/11 was an inside job!!! just kidding guys....these forums usually degrade into something completely unrelated after a while so figured I'd give it a quick troll. LOL. Seriously though, Emass - you should stop this nonsense immediately.
Q. which is the best brand of cranberry sauce? A. anybody that buys store bought canned cranberry crap is a kook! that family holiday would end up with a hell of a drunken mess of a donnybrook for sure.
Not gonna lie, I kind of like that canned cranberry sauce, even though I find the ridges remaining from being stored in a can for so long kind of off-putting.
