closed thread - not closed thread

i went surfing today with one hand because my other one is in a cast. it is harder than one would think i was on my 9,6 and never use a leash. unfortunate i botched a backhand drop on a 3 foot wave and had to swim to shore with one hand and that was not fun at all. i have never felt so exposed and helpless in the ocean before. i would of rather been in the spin cycle of a 14 foot wave.