kinda suck. still some fun ones out there though. hope every one is having a good time. havent posted in a while so i felt obligated. go phillies
I feel ya, brother. While small closeouts suck, period, if it's big enough to pull in... well... sometimes you just need some views. Go Phillies!
This past sunday's swell thrashed me with a nasty closeout. While I was paddling out, I got that "This is way bigger and heavier than it looked from the beach" feeling. First wave I paddled for-- about head high, not one thing felt right but I committed anyway. The take off was late and I was nearly at the lip by the time I caught the wave. When I popped up I had to be at a 90 degree angle and dropped wayyyy in. Just as I thought I'd make it and was about to the bottom of the face, the corner of my eye catches this thick waterfall and the whole wave just collapses on me... Those few seconds of thrashing truly suck but when you surface, brush yourself off and take the next wave you feel like a boss.
