Costa Rica live update

In cr with new chica. Spent a few days in playa grande. Swell is huge and to be quite honest overwhelming. Real pitchy. One dude said it was the ugliest swell he had seen in a few years at pg. Main peak was huge and total chaos. Sets would come in with something like 30 waves. Just relentless. Counted 37 waves before a lull. Well overhead to double. Dudes got some stand up barrels the day we rolled up. Got tossed properly day 1. Unc knows his limits. Rented bikes with board racks and pedaled down to the south end (casitas) through muddy dirt roads to catch the more lined up stuff before high tide in the am. Pitchy. Had a few garbage sessions. In my head I think. Screaming matches with monkeys. Got bit by a dog on Achilles while on said bike ride. Shark in the water today. Bit by a crab in a bar last night. No joke. Not the pubic kind. Headed to Tamarindo today. Much more user friendly wave and more crowded but friendly line up. Plenty of room compared to New England summer. Call me crazy but I actually find comfort in surfing around others when the alternative is surfing desolate spots alone where you've spotted sharks that day (1/4 mile away but visible) and crocs hang out. Comfort zone established. Gringo del norte is content not being the only pair of legs in the water. Swell to continue all week. Staying in Tamarindo. 2 for 1 frozen drinks everywhere you go, stellar eats, and new woman who has the sex drive of a Tijuana rapist. Esta bien boys. Will check in as the week progresses.

 

Posted bikini pics a few threads ago. More to come.

Got wasted on fruity drinks last night.

Woke up to find monkeys living in the tree above my hotel. Climbed to the roof and hung out with monkeys.

Surfed Tamarindo and the river mouth today. Five hour session. Waist to shoulder. Cleaned up nicely. Nabbed a few of my famous ninja crouch barrels that only a 5'6" dude can pull off. Rain came and I called it for a bit. Kicked the woman's arse in a game of pool basketball and popped a sweet ingrown hair on my chest. Off for a prevening sesh.

 

2 things to add:

Today's session I had excite bike and double dragon Nintendo songs in my head. Yes I sang them out loud audibly.

The crab: just drinking beer and I feel a pinch on my heel. I flick it off and it's one of those sand crabs. He didn't run away. He looked at me and tried to punk me down. Didn't scurry or anything. Like an effin boss.

 

Neh- neh neh neh- neh neh neneneh