Curren interview

beachbreak, my post wasn't directed at you, man...

my use of the word "your" was a little misleading

 

ok,thanks.but yeah,if someone starts a thread and posts a video there is something of an expectation that it will in some way entertain or be interesting,and that curren video is a 16 minute waste of time,except for the points 42 made.the dane acceptance speeches are pathetic,and if he is really like that he looks like he's on the verge of losing it one way or another.it could well be he's acting though,and not really that messed up.

 

I guess this younger generation thinks surfers are supposed to look like Derek jeter and stay clean and do great speeches and commercials.tom curren,his father pat curren was one of the 1st to tackle waimai in the 50s,and left the family at a young age.tom is a devoted Christian and that's why hes so mellow.we just found out tom carrol was a meth head for the past 30 years when everyone thought he was the super clean ego free charger that he is.the boys from the lost crew from everyone from corey lopez to andy irons to chris ward all partied hard,did blow,drank chronically,smoked pot,etc..I don't expect much brilliance from surfers.kelly is the only one who seems like a real athlete,not just a surfer.nothing wrong with that,surfing started out as a rebel sport.u check out old photos with rabbit,shaun tomson,bk they were all getting stoned too at sunset beach.a few months ago in the surfers journal was pics with Michael Peterson and mike ho stoner shinenigans.they used to break into the surfers cars while they were busy surfing in contests.surfings just a hobby for me,im not trying to get a career out of it or to get famous or have cool pictures on instagram.kids nowadays take a gopro out with them when its 2ft and post an hour worth of footage.im just an adrenaline junkie and like to do crazy shyt.I don't party anymore im just an honest days worker looking for time to surf inbetween.cant get much surfing done when u leave the house for work at 6 am and don't get home til 8pm,but hey I don't get to surf 23 footers everyday like everyone on here so im just a rambling kook I guess

 

[video=youtube_share;JeZDQnbeQII]http://youtu.be/JeZDQnbeQII[/video]

 

Awesome, thanks for sharing!