I've thought this all along. What doesn't kill you or make you freak out to the point of self-combustion only makes you stronger. http://www.theinertia.com/surf/the-six-second-secret-how-windswell-shaped-australias-surf-culture/ I'm very early in my progression for sure but when my rearing has necessitated instant recognition of anything rideable or what to do on the next step, I'll thrive in a good (not even perfect) wave produced from long period ground swell on a repetitive reef break.
small, sh!tty waves are good for your timing. don't worry ES, i have a feeling this is the worst flat spell we'll see this summer. the tropical weather guru's are starting jibber-jaw about 'favorable conditions' setting up late next week and beyond
AO, you sure know how to talk dirty to me. I can only get so bronzed here on the sandy sidelines before I get sick of putting crabs in the wahines' hair and need to get back on the water where I can breathe through ma gillz!!! BTW...I see those conditions setting up late next week and if they're here to stay, well I'll say the only chub on the beach won't exactly reside solely in the reform waves!!!
