Gonzalo defiantly held at all spots I went to and the forecast was true for the most part. Went north to Asbury/ loch arbor in the morn, winds didn't kick in till 12 so basically just riding big crumbly HB type stuff. winds switched and came on offshore a little but wasn't beautiful still just big with some tubes. got pizza came back home to a spot near my house thinking it was gonna be crappy... no way sh!t was heavy, OH some DOH, thick, and a ***** to paddle out. I don't even wanna know what its like to drop in at Tahiti. last night was scary were I was at, dropped in on one backside grabbed rail tried to slow down couldn't even come close to touching the tops of these barrels and im pushing 6'3"...got fugged up on that one howd you all score on this swell
Started out at Ft. Pierce early and caught a few chest high peaks. A friend called, said he was up north of Sebastian Inlet and to get there. It was very clean head high to well overhead waves. My friend was at his rich friend's house on the beach. No crowds. Just me and a couple groms and their dad. I got shacked on one right on the takeoff, made it out, got another quick cover up on the inside, made it out, and got clobbered. My first double barrel in a long time. Lots of very fun waves. Fast and steep on the takeoff, no telling if you'll make it or not on most. Got it in Sebastian from 9:30 am - 1pm. Too sore today. It's the ones you don't make it out off that hurt. That's why I'm in this lineup. The chair is soft and padded. My buddy's kid (he's 13) got the best waves of his life. Everyone was stoked. Great swell. I heard Friday was even better.
Scored on Friday with the leading edge of the swell in Maryland. Sat morning the wind was funky and although there was surf it wasn't that good especially with the low tide. Wind straightened out and it improved greatly with the incoming tide. Returned later Saturday afternoon to perfect clean and big 100 yard long lines. Paddled out and picked off a few edges before leaving a bit frustrated because although big it now was dumping at high tide. All in all Friday made the whole swell worth it, pretty much as good as it gets.
Yesterday in brevard was freaking awesome! I got some great ones and got worked too. About pulled my shoulder out of socket duck diving one. Warm water, a few jellies and lots of bait being chased. Pics courtesy of gulfster.com. http://www.gulfster.com/Daily/2014PictureGallery/101814ec/index.html
Went to nags head yesterday .The day basically went like this .Paddle paddle paddle .Drop in. Hold on. Get swatted .repeat.
NO! Took off work Friday for nags head, semi clean but really small. Talked to my cuz in salvo she said HH. I didn't make the drive further and figured I'd wait. Didn't show up and I had to leave. Figured early morning Sat. would be good at Sandbridge. Total disappointment.
Classic mistake. Leaving waves to get waves. Tough one to make. I feel for ya. Best waves I've seen in almost 2 years. Words just don't come close to explaining how jacked up I am right now.
Past few few days were total garbage. It was big but onshore/side shore winds.....but then dawn patrol this morning, winds blowing 15-20 offshore, head high (maybe bigger but I don't want to exaggerate), and oh lord was it a freaking blast! There were closeouts Ofcourse but there were some really really good ones too. Didn't make it out of any barrels but got some good views, pumped on that. Wave of the day, drop in thinking it's going to close out on me, grabbed my rail and braced for impact. It didn't close out, peeled perfectly. Really fast but just slow enough to stay open for me. Flying right in the pocket the whole way for what seemed like forever. Really didn't expect anything good from this swell with the wind that was forecasted. Last day of swell and winds go offshore, board felt like magic, amazing rides. Im amped
Surfed a lot Thursday, Friday and Saturday. Thursday morning's chest-shoulder high windswell was the best waves I surfed. Long peeling rights made for big round turns. Friday as the Gonzalo swell filled in it was really good on Delmarva in the early afternoon, but a sea breeze kicked up and ruined a potential epic session. Saturday's pure shoulder high long period swell was marred by wrong tides and winds early, it was getting really good by noon as the tide came in and the winds went straight offshore but after surfing 3+ hours, had to cut another potentially great sesh short due to afternoon family obligations.
Got about 2.5 hours in, school sesh had to cut down surf time. Awesome day overall despite time constraints. Nice to have some more power behind the waves.
Surfed the entire weekend at The-Place-That-Shall-Not-Be-Named. Artie was way bigger than Gonzalo if anyone's keeping track. Friday DP was clean lines, chest high, offshore (W) wind, lotta closeouts but for every 4 or 5 of those there was the long clean one. No crowds. Saturday DP was probably the best sesh of the day, 8 kt W wind pushing the waves up, better longer lines, chest high, maybe a bit OH on some of the biggies but those were almost always closeouts. Medium chest high waves held up better. Swell actually picked up as Saturday went on. Mid-day sesh was bigger & fun but closeouts again dominated. Mid-afternoon watched some people work to get into good position on waves only to get utterly pounded by pitching waves that started off clean as a whistle & ended up vicious closeouts. One dude from Cali (Newport Bch) told me it was no wonder that people from the east coast could surf well anywhere in the world 'cause he said NB wasn't at all like this stuff, he had a helluva time trying to figure out the beach break & took a real beating in the process. Saturday late afternoon was a lot of water moving in on the high tide with nowhere for the water to go, which in turn created a powerful refraction coming back out through the waves. It was good rides for maybe 30 mins & then turned mushey due to tide. Still, there were long, long rights & lefts to be had if one moved in. Sunday DP (today), that 20+ kt NNW wind was the devil in disguise. Shoving us down the beach on a conveyor belt, forcing us to throw the board down the wave face after paddling like mad & then freezing our asses off walking up the beach several times. Still.....nowhere else I'd rather be....
surfed anywhere between bayhead and lavallette yesterday. a lot of them were shallow sandbar closeouts. i picked my waves right and got some pretty good rides. pulled into this huuuge barrel on what i though was a 4 foot wave. my friend saw me in the barrel and told me that my knees were barely bent when i was riding the barrel. in hindsight i should've gone down to seaside park to surf because 90% of the waves where i was were closing out. so much stoke in the water though
..or maybe actually tell us about it instead of advertising your surf videos that are most likely filmed with a gopro. (after seeing the video) HOLY SH!T I WAS RIGHT IT WAS FILMED WITH A GOPRO HAHAHAH. -generic imovie text -an attempt at a timelapse at the beginning (it's the thought that counts) -video combined with photos -you spelled youtube wrong at the beginning -completely unnecessary clip thats black and white (how'd you mount a 16mm camera on your board?) -freeze frames of some awkward looking moves your friends are doing -you slow-mo'd a bottom turn please don't come on here with the purpose of advertising your videos, thanks.
I just did... it was like thigh high mush.........................................................................
couldn't agree more lots of places were closing out but it was big and when a big shoulder came through it was awesome everyone paddled like a fu(king mad dog for it though which was annoying.. that's crazy a dude from Newport said that considering if he surfs the wedge that sh!t can get wiiiillddddddd.. I paddled out this moring expecting to get nice leftovers but instead I got what you got, shrinkage, bad winds, and really shallow breaks I guess Saturdays heavy stuff hammered the sand bar a bit much