Only knee to waist off Dam Neck later in the afternoon today and fizzling out fast. Water 50, air 43. Beats swimming laps in a pool, which is what I did yesterday.
I surfed today. Buddy came by to grab the stick he was borrowing. He got to the break 15 minutes before sunset, 30 before pitch. I wasn't gonna charge since I got barrelled yesterday here and am headed to SoCal for the weekend plus had a real busy day of work. He sends me pics when he gets there (8 mins away) and says I need to get there. I trow on the suite and drive like mad through wind and snowflakes as it's getting dark. I sprinted across the beach and into the water and high tide and got out back fast with two dives and good paddling. Took off on some semi-clean chest to shoulder ramps that were fast and fun. Got like 4 of them before heading in at pitch. Was only like a half hour or so but that session took a lot out of me. So yeah, I charged both Wednesday and Thursday of this swell. Did you?
heres something we could have fun with...lets debate which popular spot is more popular WITHOUT naming either.... a-frame superiority picketh I.
I raped and pillaged The Shire for a few hours this morning. Stomach to head with some willing and playful shoulders.
Gave it a go Wednesday. Nobody else out most of the time, and for good reason. Close-out after close-out as I watched the "shoulder" speed ahead of the peak. Perhaps it was due to the 25 mph off-shores,the perpendicular swell angle and 12 second period, or bigger waves the previous day affecting the sand bars.
Ah this is a quality analazation...the scenario for almost every east coast spot...constantly shifting bars...breaks constantly changing...this gives one the advantage of adaptability...embrace it...
Don't know if fl counts . Anyway it was 2 ft and mushy but 60 degrees and sunny so I went for a couple of low tide hours.
Wow, Antoine! Welcome back me and your friend went out today too. That water was a cold 68F ...What a blast though The ESA held a contest and what a pleasure it is watching the kids have so much fun. The waves were breaking further out than usual, so the rides were really long.
I surfed Sat & Sun. Water had a funky smell to it on Saturday. Probably gonna get sick, but I got some bombs with 20 turns per wave - NO JOKE! well worth it! Also was my first session with a rounded pin. WHY...WHY Has it taken me this long to buy a board with a tail like that?!?! I felt like cory f'n lopez out there. My new board can DANCE!
