Ding repair Question??

Discussion in 'Surfboards and Surfboard Design' started by idsmashh, Jun 19, 2012.

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  1. Jun 24, 2012 #21
    Mr.Belmar

    Mr.Belmar Well-Known Member

    3,824
    Aug 19, 2010
    Hey Bro- remember that 85% of ding repair is sanding... I have no clue what your ding repair is looking like, but sanding can either make or break the repair.... maybe its the color that your not liking tho?
     
    Mr.Belmar, Jun 24, 2012
    Mr.Belmar, Jun 24, 2012
  3. Jun 24, 2012 #22
    idsmashh

    idsmashh Well-Known Member

    404
    Aug 2, 2010
    Yea, I've only been using 60 grit and 120 grit. I'm gonna go to Lowes and widen my selection a bit tommorrow. The reason I don't like it is cause I was impatient. Instead of waiting untill I had time to go pick up some q-cell to do the repair I went ahead and filled it in with just straight resin. Its water tight, but the resin is clear so you can clearly still see the ding. It's just laminated. I also plan on swinging by West Marine tommorow and picking up some white epoxy dye for the hotcoat. I'm hoping that helps.

    Another thing I don't like is that I did not use masking tape so the repair is not squared off and is taking up more space then it needs to (other thing that I plan on picking up tommorrow). Any more insight or tips would be awesome here guys?? I've posted this same thread on a few other surf forums and am really liking the feedback from everyone. I'm no good at this stuff, but Im trying to get better with your help!!! :)
     
    Last edited: Jun 24, 2012
    idsmashh, Jun 24, 2012
    idsmashh, Jun 24, 2012

  5. Jun 25, 2012 #23
    LBCrew

    LBCrew Well-Known Member

    6,024
    Aug 12, 2009
    West Marine has pigment... and a little goes a long way. If you use too much, you'll end up with a rubbery hotcoat that won't ever get hard enough to sand properly. If you use too little, you'll see the discoloration right through it. You want it to match the color of the surrounding area. So... mix your resin and hardener by the appropriate ratio, then add a TINY bit of pigment. Mix well, paint on a THIN layer, and see what it looks like. If it looks too white, you added too much pigment and you need to start over. If it matches, you're good. If it's not opaque enough to mask enough of the discoloration, wipe it off, add another TINY amount of pigment, and test it again. Test it out and keep going until you're happy with the result. But remember, you're going to be sanding most of it off. The purpose of the hotcoat is to fill the weave of the lamination, and give you something to fair out ("feather") into the surrounding area.

    Mistakes are not always a bad thing. But even YOU should be able to distinguish between a mistake and a STUPID mistake. Stupid mistakes are things like not reading the label of a product, not following directions, not following advice from somebody who knows... you know, stuff like that.
     
    LBCrew, Jun 25, 2012
    LBCrew, Jun 25, 2012
  6. Jun 25, 2012 #24
    Mr.Belmar

    Mr.Belmar Well-Known Member

    3,824
    Aug 19, 2010
    totally forgot- masking out the area really helps! lol but note that you can 'chip' off any resin that got splattered/or ran onto any part of your board that was not pre-sanded. any resin /epoxy that is on your original glass job, that you didn't sand the surface before hand, you can chip it off with a knife or something.
    Also, from experience, like someone else mentioned... if you use qcell it will probably end up being ultra white compared to your board... sometimes I like the look of the clear epoxy over qcell. qcell only really helps with weight issues- and more of a paste to work with.
     
    Last edited: Jun 25, 2012
    Mr.Belmar, Jun 25, 2012
    Mr.Belmar, Jun 25, 2012
  7. Sep 28, 2014 #25
    rrrrrrrrrr

    rrrrrrrrrr New Member

    1
    Sep 28, 2014
    rrrrrrrrrr, Sep 28, 2014
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