Discussing Roy's surfboard designs.

In my opinion you are kidding yourself.

You honestly believe that the reason why the vast majority of longboarders insist on noseriding is because they got there via independent self expression?

I don't think so.

Likewise your insistence that 'good surfing' requires doing more than the minimum shows that you are firmly entrenched in the modernist trick surfing mind set.

'decides to perform a trick'.... that doesn't sound like a no mind zone to me, and of course it is brought about by the 'top down' influence of the competition based surf industry.

I'm calling BS on that... if you didn't perform tricks, or try to, you'd go home feeling like a beginner, and that wouldn't do.

Actually it is impossible to go straight and make the wave, so no one knows whether it is boring or not.

Certainly I never do it. You just fail to see what is really happening i'e' constant changes, turns, adjustments and subtleties.

Riding waves can be as challenging as one wants it to be regardless of one's approach.

For example riding a 13 foot board in a crowded point break while taking off deeper, making more sections and going further is a challenge I assure you.

Try it and then get back to me about it.

Make it look easy school frequently suckers in the unwary whose heads are full of their media plugged 'performance'.

Usually they encounter a collision with reality as their deep knowledge fails in the face of apparent nothingness in rescue orange.

'I'll show that guy' is often followed by failure, confusion, and sometimes unfortunately, anger, then beer.

 

Troll behaviour has been observed, but thankfully the conversation is taking a more philosophical turn at present.

FYI I neither 'contracted' nor 'contradicted', your logic is seriously at fault on that one.

I can report that from outside the box it is sometimes hard to accept that the monocultural and frequently illogical pronouncements coming from those inside the box are actually sincere... that the herd members actually 'believe their own BS' as it were... but sadly the dogma is so entrenched that these people have accepted it as their very own creation.

 

You'd turn down such an opportunity?

Never mind, another wave comes.

 

Getting it wrong seems to be your specialty... Roy does not partake.

Accusations of drug use almost always occur when the opponent is losing the argument. In any case they contribute less than nothing to the discussion.

So as it turns out you are the one using drugs, while I am not.

How did that attempt work out for you?

Strange to you, no doubt.

I don't, but if I decided to, you telling me not to would not prevent it.

Nothing could be further from the truth, and keep in mind that since surfing is supposed to be a personal thing I am permitted to judge progress according to my own goals rather than yours... just as you are free to judge my surfing according to your own goals as you do.

Getting roasted in the water by a 'beginner' of 48 years standing is such a drag...

 

You are confused, I was replying to your post.

This is a group discussion, remember?

.

 

Fitz I looked at your post for anything which I would be interested in replying to but couldn't find anything, it's just vague vibe stuff which I'd rather pass on or has been covered previously.

Here are the first couple of waves on the Ghost 12 after 5 months out of the water. The point at Manu Bay Raglan had a small swell which only one other rider apart from ourselves was interested in, even though it is NZ's most crowded point break. I slid a few before the swell died feeling while feeling very 'rusty', and then spent a couple of hours chatting with an old surfing acquaintance from my home break while the kids swam and rode paipos down past the boat ramp. A good day all told.

[video=youtube;2h1Y_a_XKpM]http://www.youtube.com/watch?edit=vd&v=2h1Y_a_XKpM[/video]

 

Charles it's Badass for sure, that's the fin from the new Hotkurl. I had one wave on the new Hotkurl before slipping off because i hadn't waxed close enough to the rail. Board was absolutely hammered on the rocks even though it was a small swell... it high tide it breaks right on to the boulders. Anyway the fin was smashed off and we got a hole on the rail/bottom transition, plus about 20 dings and scrapes. Fortunately I also brought the trusty Ghost along. I have a spare fin, made from much stronger heart Kahikatea.

I'll post the first ride on the Hotkurl later, even though I don't look very confident... it's 12 years since I rode one and the whole short session I think I was trying to ride the 12-9 Makaha. It's interesting to see how the concave and tucked edge directs the spray downwards off the rail rather than upwards as it does with the soft pinched 50/50 on the Dragon or the round 50/50 on the Ghost. Hotkurl felt very loose, she'll be good once I've dialled in.

 

Get up at 4:30 am far.

 

First ride on the 'Hotkurl'... just feeling my way but lots of potential there, and repairs are proceeding pretty quickly:

[video=youtube;7b84DXqhVIk]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7b84DXqhVIk[/video]

 

Lol, I know what's coming though as I had an almost identical board back in 2001, to put it mildly it ruled.







l