Do Crowds Keep You From Surfing?

I honestly think half the people at the crowded spots are there simply to get a front row seat to the action

 

Totally agree with this. I'll usually aim to be ready to go an hour before sunrise. Hell, ill surf in the dark, and have.... allot. During winter pre work or post work sessions aren't doable. At least not with light. I won't go out of its big in the dark. Up to chest high ill do it. Sometimes you just got to do what you got to do to surf. Full moon helps, but you don't always have that luxury.

And cep, I'm like you. Get up early everyday, although not 430 early. Thing is once the weekend comes, my internal clock wakes me up early anyway. If i sleep till 9am, that's me sleeping late. So i just get up early anyway. Can't waste valuable surf time. Ill sleep when I'm dead

 

I've never been a social surfer. Surfing was always what I did to get away from people. I know some people who are just into it for the social aspect........that's not me.

I could be out alone and a single person walks down to paddle out. I may smile and say high but on the inside I'm cursing the person out for intruding on my solitude. Other than my children there are only a couple people I actually enjoy surfing with. Everyone else is just in the way.

There are plenty of days where I look at the crowd and the conditions and just go back home or I paddle out at places where its not even good just to get alone.

 

I'm a lot like this.

 

Way, way too many sharks for a dawn patrol lifestyle down here. Once in a while it's warranted if the winds are due to clock around as a front goes thru. You guys who DP on the regs are brave souls.

 

I know your kidding but I would. Seriously. A small day at Swamis - like 2-3 ft on the face. Midday to early afternoon when the morning crew is gone and the kelp still keeps the onshores from texturing things up too bad. AMAZING wave at waist high and there might be 5 old guys doing more talking than surfing and 5 of their kids on soft tops who can barely surf. Your be doing turns all the way to the beach in a crowd factor that is non-existent.

crappy little day at swamis that was as much mellow fun as i've ever had in 2 foot waves.

 

maybe a few rights but they are WAY harder to get and for me not worth it. The left at lower Trestles while not as insane as the right, is a shorter slower version of the right and still very good. Figure out a few of the regular footers at the top of the food chain that are ALWAYS going to go right and don't yield, and paddle right next to them on their left and the left might just be yours. Its not a fun way to surf, but goddam that wave is fun!

Left at Lowers on a small day. the picture makes it look empty - it wasn't but i got a bunch of the lefts about this size. Amazing wave for frontside turns.

 

It ain't that bad, stop being a puss lol

 

Right on Mitchell. That Swamis pic is exactly how it was last month when I went. One sesh a bit bigger with about 8 mellow surfers/surfettes and the other sesh was just like that pic with 4-5 of us for 2-3 hours. Sat on peak and if I was solo or in position the rights were fun but the left (if you recall your advice to me) was a nice option if right was too busy.

I sorta regret not going to trestles but the day I went up there I surfed T street and it was really fun. The left @ Lowers does seem fun.

 

I have witnessed a half dozen shark bites, and if my memory serves me right, all the shark bites I have seen are in late mornings or late afternoons

 

If you get bit, it's nice if a qualified ocean rescue guard is within a mile so you don't bleed out. Otherwise use your leash/wetsuite for a tourniquet and make sure you have a buddy to drive you to the hospital. Or have some duck tape handy.

 

Right on Mitchell. Swamis was exactly how you described when I went. one day was just like that pic and the other was bigger and only 8-10 mellow surfers/surfettes. I did not surf Lowers but always wanted to and the left does seem fun...I went to T street which was real fun. Sorta regret not going to Lowers but swell seemed like it was hitting T st nicely...maybe next time. Cool pic of the left...

 

I'd never surf if I had rules to play by. I go early morning before work all the time and I'm alone 99.9% of the time. Nobody around as far as the eye can see usually. Just me and the ocean, and everything that calls it home. The closest I ever came to a shark was actually after work around 6pm. Swam right up to me and swam off.

Those lonely mornings I lose myself in my surroundings, sharks are last on my mind till I see something close by. Never seen an attack in all my life. Even surfing New Smyrna and Ponce Inlet solo or just a few at or before sunrise and no problem. I've seen them around, but nothing happened. I always hear about these "attacks" but never see them.

 

I don't believe in crowds.

 

The only time the crowds would keep me away is when it's Summer and the conditions aren't very good. Ankle to knee high with a million roaches in the water? It's kept me out before, but other times I've dealt with it. All depends what kind of mood I'm in.

A million people out in some really nice conditions? I don't let it bother me.

 

Crowds don't keep me from surfin, but they will move me a few blocks down the beach.

I'd rather surf waves that are 90% of what they are at the crowded place, and have em all to myself. There can be 40 guys out at the best spot, and only me out at a spot 3 blocks away. I can live with that.

 

swam to the other side of the block to avoid the crowd yesterday. probably about 20 on one end that i term Aftershock at Washout. small drift but it would pull you in. i'd get a handful then either paddle all the way back or get out of the water and walk. only 1-2 guys on that side, one that gave up later on, but it is so much better getting them to yourself. especially after i got dropped in on earlier, i even raised my hand and whistled at the guy before it was coming to let him know i'm getting after it. still cut off. "no respect i tell ya, no respect" - Rodney

 

Been crowded the last few days with waist to chest peelers and offshore conditions, along with 100 degree inland temperatures. Needless I say more, there's been some shenanigans followed by locals regulating vociferously.

Funniest one was watching some kook furiously paddling for a clean left, which a local female was already up and gliding. She was warning him all the way down the line to no avail...he didn't even look.

When they were about to collide, she instinctively tried to protect herself and her board, which resulted in her grabbing his head and dunking him for about 3-4 seconds while his feet were flailing away. It was so hilarious.

He tried to come up from his thrashing and flip some crap but I was there to remind him how he fudged etiquette, except I probably wasn't very eloquent lol.

He quickly apologized and paddled up the beach about 17 peaks.