Not my opinion. How it was. Maybe not anymore. I started surfing. Saw the local crew over there. Said, that is the goal. Someday. Paddled out 2 bars down safe distance. Up the street from where i was born, mind you. Soon as i hit the water, guy comes flyin' down from said peak, Kicks out in shorebreak spraying me in the face, says get out of the way kook. All good. I respected that. I was a kook. After my first winter i was out there with them. It's actually quite beautiful. You work at something and you earn something.