My girl says it's how you use it, but I'm not so sure... As for the size of waves, I read this interesting take: http://www.theinertia.com/surf/i-think-three-foot-surf-is-actually-the-worlds-best-surf/ While the author does sound like a weenie, I think he makes some good arguments. At 3 ft, sessions can last longer, you don't take anywhere near as much of a beating and the vibes are usually more mellow. Although those who say they like 3ft days better than 6ft days probably do so because they can't surf the bigger days, but I do love me an uncrowded, waist-high day. I distinctly remember a weekday at Sandspits in Santa Barbara where I had long rights with only one other guy in the water for hours. Sure it wasn't heavy, but man the rides were fun. It was like having Disneyland to yourself.
Don't feel like reading the attachment. My favorite day would prob be 3 to 4,with some occasional larger sets.
For the most part, as long as I'm surfing, I'm good. I'm not a "big wave" chaser, and I'm not 6-hour session guy when it's waist high, either. As long as I get to go surfing, and the waves are clean, I'm happy. But if I had to build the perfect wave, it would be head high to a foot overhead and hollow.
The author is a pusswah and a liar or a midget. Those 50 year old longboarders are still there on OH+ days. They just sit farther out and they'll mean mug ya just as hard as a 20 year old and back paddle ya twice as quickly. Or they shortboard just like half the 60 year olds out there. An not like Barney, "I ride a 7'6" funboard, shortboart" Cuda; but legit LBCrew, 60 year olds who are good surfers. If I added a few extra years LB, I apologize I'm not a big Ian Cairns fan, but as a fellow "big guy", one thing he said in Bustin Down the Door has always stuck with me and is pertinent to the convo: Big waves are just a big canvas to do more big, hotdog moves on. All hail the big wiener Replace the *** in the URL below with F A G https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fEvm***ZvEo&sns=em And your girl is either lying or has never been with anyone who posts to: https://www.reddit.com/r/bdp Big Hotdog Moves is the name of my new barber shop quartet
I actually hate big waves. A waist to chest day, with solid bigger sets a low incoming tide and sun on my back is perfect for me. There have been occasional days, like once ever 2 years or so when the size comes together with all other conditions being perfect, those days I like.
Today was waist to chest,and I surfed for 4 hrs alone in semi clean backwash jackups at low tide, and had a blast..probably my funnest session in a month.. I get out of the water and the first thing this curmudgeon tourist says to me is, "not very big out there". I said to him "size isn't everything". "Go back to the valley with your negativity bro" He looked at me like I was from another planet.. I thought it was pretty funny though...lol
One of my favorite days was in CR with close to DOH and long period with some angle to the shoreline. A bigger wave but not breaking steep and hard...super easy roll in and then a long ripping ride. It is more about how it breaks than how big. A 4-6 foot day with a heavy and steep face can be a neck breaker with enough juice. A bigger wave with a gradual drop can be something anyone can handle. More factors than just size here.
a waves a wave.being in jersey where it gets above 4' a few times a year,3ft is perfect lol.but big is also good because u don't get it often.compared to a Hawaiian like jjf who lives somewhere where theres huge surf all the time.its all good if its atleast waist high.i don't do ankle-thigh high days lol
I like 4'-5' best. Not opposed to bigger waves by any means, we just don't get much opportunity on the right coast. I also have a ball on 2' log days when they're peeling. And then those 3' BOMB sets that come through. So fun.
Hahaha kanman. Gotta love those bomb sets. Mush nailed it. All about how its breaking. While traveling its more likely to get a bigger wave that breaks nice. Where as here, when it gets OH you kinda need a mid-high tide. At about 3 feet OH outs going to be a sh!t show no matter the tide. Close out city. Or just down the line race to stay ahead of it. I'd prefer a chest to HH day, mid to full tide. Something you can really unload a few solid turns on. Barrels are great and all. But solid turns are what get my stoke waaaaay up.
^^^ haha you know it brotha. I must also add that tide, wind, swell period, type of break, all also play big factors regarding what I like. Tropical long period swell with mild off shores is my favorite. However, I'd rather surf really clean small long lines than big messy wind swell any day. But surf is surf and I'll take what I can get.
This past Sunday in NJ was just right. Punch, some bigger ones zipped in sometimes, and actually it wasn't that crowded.