Does surfing relax you?

every now and then i get a good feeling of relaxation out there- but that typically comes from a sunrise/sunset/ or coming off a hangover. it's the after that i feel a lot better, and that's prob from the smoke session thereafter, but altogether a great body high

 

I'm on the yes and no scale. Yes, Surfing is a relaxing thing, but for me it is often not relaxing. Trying to manage the time to get out between work and the wife and dog can be tough without getting **** for it. Then add the timing of the right wind and tide and finding the right spot to get in can be stressful. I always feel like I am racing to the beach and that it is going to be **** by the time I get there. In reality I probly have as much time as I need and the conditions are not changing all that much. All that crap aside, once I do get in the water I am pretty zen. Unless I am at a crowded beach break and the guy next to me has his competition stare on and is all over the place and stink eyeing like he hates me. I just dont get that **** sometimes, but I digress.
So anyways, the actual act of surfing is very relaxing when it all comes together. The before and rushing around and lying to my work and stuff can be a hassle... but always worth it in the end.
However this morning sucked.. I knew it would be ****, but the reports were saying it would be ok with like 3-4mph winds so I pulled the trigger. It was windier than hell and just awful so I took the dog for a walk on the beach. Watched a couple dudes get in the water at a slightly sheltered spot, but ultimately decided not to get myself all annoyed before work

 

I envy all those SoCal ex marines that did their 20 years and retired in trailers in the desert and surf every day. If I followed through and joined the army after high school I'd be retiring in two years or dead.

 

Surfing keeps me sane, and the idiots around me breathing.
I've never had a bad time in the water. Ever.

 

You're a hot mess bro!

 

The aggression, the adrenaline, the mad dash to paddle out past the monster set coming in, the anticipation walking over the dune wondering what the surf is going to look like, all of it relaxes me. Maybe not while it's happening, but when I am done I feel more relaxed.

 

yea, while I am surfing I am not too relaxed. After a good session I feel relaxed and fulfilled.

 

I try to keep it relaxing. I don't get myself all amped up before a session or anything. I calmly drive to my spot. Calmly get my board, and calmly walk to the waters edge and calmly put my leash on, and calmly paddle out, while calmly duck diving, and calmly searching for the peak. Then once I find it, I camp out and calmly pick off waves that come in my direction. It's not a sprint, it's a marathon. Take your time, enjoy the experience.

 

I agree with this. Generally I can skip out of work easier in the afternoons but sitting in traffic heading out of the city weekdays sucks and is stressful compared to getting up and out at 7am on a weekend. Also if traffic sucks and then the surfing sucks, then I just felt like I've wasted 3 hours of my life for nothing.

Love to live where I could ride a bike or walk to the beach at some point. That would be cool.

 

Did that last year. If I choose to, I walk for 9/10 of a mile to the beach; nice warm up.
But still, I prefer to drive--walking back home with a board under my arms that are feeling like boiled spaghetti noodles is rather taxing.
I could have moved closer, but I refused to do so. We lose our privacy on the beach, and, with the "global warming" all you liberals are sobbing about, I'll just wait for the ocean to move up to my home.....
toodle le do...

 

Good Surf absolutely relaxes me.

Crappy sessions do the opposite!

 

ABSOLUTELY!! nailed it.

 

Sorta related, interesting to read Josh Kerr's comments on surfing - - wherein he wakes up at like 2am to 'trick his body' so that by the time he's surfing a morning heat his body is full-on wide awake.

I will try his routine. I do a lotta DP, and even after a 3-hour drive it's a struggle some mornings as y'all have certainly experienced by getting up & paddling out relatively soon after coffee

 

The better the surf is , the bigger the high!!! Big swell leaves me with an adrenaline buzz for days. Chest to head high is relaxing and fun. Anything less leaves me pissed and edgey. But as a whole fun sessions definitely RELAX this old dog. As for waking crazy early to get my body ready to perform , Nah I basically sleep walk to dawn patrol and after that first refreshing duck dive Im alert and Blessed!!!! YEEEEEEHEW!

 

You have more energy than ConEd after a power outage, bradley

 

I'm digging reading everyone's responses to this interesting question... Surfing is pretty amazing in that it can be "relaxing" while still being tremendously physically exhausting and challenging, and probably makes your brain more alert and active than any other activity we do in our daily lives.

I'd like to see some research done on brain activity while surfing. Our brains probably light up like a Christmas tree. My guess is there's all kinds of "pleasure center" activity going on, in addition to all of the physical and visual/spacial stuff.

 

In a word, no. Surfing for me is really fun and one of my favorite things to do, but while I am doing it I am working to catch waves, get in position, etc. I don't mind doing any of that, in fact I enjoy it immensely, but I don't find that relaxing. For me, the relaxation comes after. When I'm surfed out and enjoying a beer and recovering from the physical exertion. Then again, I feel the same way about most athletic endeavors. I get a similar high from going on a longer run. I enjoy the experience while it's happening, but its the exertion induced high afterward that really mellows me out. Regardless, there are few things I'd rather be doing.

 

Definitely agree on the brain lighting up. When it's a relaxing session it probably lights up differently than a high energy session in that it probably brings a calming to the ole noodle, but when things get big, more adrenaline and endorphin get pumping and that's when the sensory system gets pushed to the limit.

For me, if i'm on the edge of my comfort zone I may get sensory overload and bug out a little. That's when things are moving very fast but i'm fighting to stay in the moment and keep it slow like those relaxing sessions.

I think those who are able to achieve that type of control over their mind in those moments are the ones who are able to charge the larger waves without their sensors getting overloaded thus getting in the way. I can't imagine being calm in 20ft waves, but I know there are some who will claim they are calm in that stuff. Maybe their sensors are dulled and it doesn't affect them the same, idk. But it's interesting to talk about.

 

I would venture to say it also depends ont he waves ,height,intervals ,form etc..
.a calm glassy slow 2 ft, 8 second light offshore wind day is a lot more relaxing
than waist to chest 6 second heavier wave day, while the second one maybe be more fun it also takes quite a bit more effort, planning, execution etc so less time to just chill and relax

 

If I am surfing #3s on a LB and feeling Irie and watching the sunset and it's 2-3' and not too crowded then it's a relaxing session.

If I am surfing 4-6' grinders over the reef, then not so much. There is a sense of excitement and anxiety that comes along with surfing more serious waves.

Not sure I ever feel that way on the EC. Typically, it is more frustrating that the conditions don't come together. But, when the waves are good, it is like one big climax that last for hours and hours. I totally agree that post sesh positive vibes are the shiz.

One of the most relaxing times in surfing to me is post sesh on the beach. When you are not in a hurry to get some where and you have no where to be. I think it allows you to take it all in. Or, when you get the whole beach day and you post up and have multiple sessions...in and out of the water. Chill out for a bit and relax and hit it again...seems like at the end of those days I feel very content!