frost usually shorter period translates to less time bt waves and sets, so it can make the paddle out seem more difficult
Sometimes its fun, sometimes its a fight. Its better not to be in a hurry. Slow it down. Then slow it down more. Surfing can be relaxing "post sesh". Or it can be relaxing when youre out there. Depends on mood, temperature, how many a$$wads decide to cast right by you, how many people in the crowd, wind (big one), current ( big one), wave size (not so much if its clean). Drink lots of water.
'Cause you got that old school, Ben-Hur attitude... go to 1:20 [video=youtube;frE9rXnaHpE]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=frE9rXnaHpE[/video]
I really like on bigger days, when I'm a mite nervous(although I reckon a time when I wasn't nervous, mmm hmm)...I like taking that first beating, then you're like that's not bad, then you get dialed in.
yeah i can get timid rarely but when i get smashed im ready to go after that. when its like doh and the reef isnt that deep, thats what gets to me.
Seldom, don't take this wrong... When I hear your voice in my head when I read your posts, You sound like Butters Stotch from South Park. It's f*cking awesome!
Definitely relaxing. Where else can you disappear to for an hour or two and not give one thought to...the list of s*** you need to do at the office, for the wife, who's taking kids to practice, need to get that oil changed... My mind is filled only with "ooh, bump on horizon coming my way!" that's whether it's 2ft or 2ft OH...and occasionally "keep paddling down, kook"...
Doesn't relax me before or during. Usually the opposite; I get amped up. However Afterwards I am more relaxed. Kind of like a reset button.
Yup, this. Really translates to any other sport I do. You get little older and realize that really you care the most and others are really either glued to their phones or worried about themselves. So, who cares..have fun. I used to be in such damn rush all the time to get to the beach when swell was on. Especially on EC.."is it good now, will this **** slop be still rideable in 25min, because it may not?! Is the wind turning?!!" Picked up 2 speeding tickets and almost tore my shoulder changing. I am still fast to change but no longer anxious to get to the beach like that anymore. What fixes perspective is some travel that exposes mediocrity of general day to day conditions at home, plus I don't wanna stress about it. Now only thing that annoys me is listening to bros describe shoulder high as triple over head and get all amped about side shore dump fest. Good for them but stupid. No sweating it.