I do both these days but today id prefer to stand up. I'm finally getting a feel for my board and would like to keep going while momentum is here. Plus switching it to quad setup gained some serious traction compared to single. But we'll see, it's not too taxing to throw the boog and fins in along for the ride too. Versatility pays off. +1 on the herb
I've done that. Running out the door before another issue comes up, grab 2 boards and wax, no surf check, just go straight to the spot, and ....no towel. Post sesh, trying to dry off with my shirt, soggy car seat, no bueno.
A little bit of everything. Sometimes surfing is... as I like to call it... an "aspirin." Helps me feel better when things aren't going well on land. Other times it's just something to do to be outdoors. Other times it's a way to vent some pent up aggression. Sometimes I don't even have to surf to get the same kind of pleasure... building a board, working on a new template... sometimes even fixing a ding can be relaxing and lets you focus on something that takes your mind off of everything else.
Was having a great sesh the other day when out of no where some jag-off came haulin asset out to the lineup on a dirt bike. Totally ruined it for all of us.
head high, light offshore, crisp fall morning, in no more then a 3/2 <~~~~~just paddling out in those conditions gives me a complete sense of euphoria...and iam not talking about catching a wave yet.
the ocean always makes me happy.i can get caught inside on a 12 wave set with 10footers and il still be happy.i feel like when u step into the ocean u are leaving the world and all its bs.nobody can touch u,except sharks.its a drug in itself.the only time I get mad at the beach is when its too big but perfect and im too puzzy to paddle out.those days suck
Ear aches effects equilibrium (Balance). Not surprised you had an off session. Good advice on taking care of early aches though Personally do the peroxide or dry lock. Have a great session when the early aches is gonen
Ear aches effects equilibrium (Balance). Not surprised you had an off session. Good advice on taking care of early aches though Personally do the peroxide or dry lock. Have a great session when the early aches is gonen
Ear aches effects equilibrium (Balance). Not surprised you had an off session. Good advice on taking care of early aches though Personally do the peroxide or dry lock. Have a great session when the early aches is gone.
Surfin is a stress reliever for me and an opportunity to get better. Yesterday was ok, but one really fun/satisfying thing happend. A wave hogging SUP douche was snagging every solid set wave . I paddle out and took off ON the jetty ,and there he is shoulder hoppin in. I got to chase him off the wave and when he fell off I kicked out right on top of him ,hahaha I felt his head bangin around under my fins. Soooo funny. L8TR A$$ HOLE Supper!!!!!
^that was kinda funny. I hate SUPpers...well, a lot of them around my area are wave hogging dorks. That sh!t will put me in a bad mood real quick.
Quick update: went out today for the small pickings still out there. Wasn't really even looking to catch anything, and a few times that I went for it - wrong foot placement, handbrake engaged, off to one side, nose dives galore, you name it. Whatever... Caught one 2' by accident which was short lived due to a prompt close out I thought I'd feel pain in the ear underwater but... It's pretty much the same on nosedives and ducks. Felt like it might have even loosened a bit. So fast forward to home - gonna try the peroxide thing. Tilting head back and forth I felt a little water come out and further examining with a qtip I kinda poked at the source of pain. The qtip came back slightly pinkish (whatever that means... Not bloody, pinkish liquidy ... ??) I gotta figure out this health insurance thing...
I think the most important part is to remember that any time in the water is better than no time at all. Whether the stars align or not. You guys are right, you can't get frustrated because you have an off day. It's a reward in itself. More time for me to boog while this thing heals. #oneocean
There will always be problems and challenges, but getting out on the water makes a day special. I'm grateful being able to do so.