It's gotta be REALLLLY bad for me to get there and not paddle out, even though I don't live far at all from the beach. If it's likely to be THAT bad I probably just won't go at all.
Before the internet I lived in view of or 1 block from the ocean always, after the internet I've only managed to move 1 mile from the ocean and thats as far as I can get away from it or I get antsy. That being said the crowd can be fun sometimes its like a obstacle course, and I don't shy away from paddle battles and fighting angry strangers so who cares. In the end empty is always the best though. Its not gettin any emptier any time soon, the world population is growing and info travels faster daily, might as well embrace it. Crappy or good if theres a wave surf it.
just surf when its onshore and punchy! all the turds usually wait for the offshore wind. onshore bowls rule. tmrw yehewww!
Wow what ever happen to better threads like this one from 2011?? And what ever happen to 'Live Aloha'??
I don't know man. I'm pretty sure I know some guys that surf that don't actually like it. By the way, these are the same people that consistently drive to the break and go home if it's anything less than chest high and glassy, regardless of what the forecast/report may have indicated. I don't really get it.