I was watching the jetties and noticed how much different the MoCo jetties break on east vs south swells. Anybody able to thoroughly explain what's going on?
I feel like MoCo faces directly east. So when an east swell hits, it doesn't peel off the jetties like it will on a south swell. On the south it just peeeelss right for days
I have no idea how sand fits into the equation. I'd like to know as well though. I always hear people here, and everywhere really that "This spot has such a nice sandbar" and all that jazz, but isn't sand shifting all the time? I feel that the longest time a sandbar can stay stagnant isn't really all that long.
moco swell direction east swell closes out but births rips…se swell nice, but in somoco (one upped ya) a long period se swell also dumps (as opposed to breaking)…best bet is sse. an ese for moco means…i don't know. i'll punt and say this ideal direction for the cove at shook.
Yea...any explanations as why it's easier the get out on the left side of the jetty? regardless of direction..
Brahs- I'm not sure what your talking about... My fav break in moco - Belmar,NJ- breaks and peels on any swell direction. In fact- it always seems to be a few feet bigger then other popular moco spots... You can feel it when your out there! #FeelTheMagicInBelmarNJ
Every jetty is different, but here's the basics... The prevailing longshore current is South to North up here... so the sand moves that way, too. It piles up on the south side of jetties because the velocity of the current slows down when it hits the jetty, eddies, and bends. The slower the water moves, the less sediment it can carry, so when it slows down on the south side it deposits sand. Some of that sand gets carried around the tip of the jetty, where the water again slows down, eddies, and bends. At the same time, on the north side of the jetty, the current tends to scour out the sand, and the rip that we like to paddle in along the north side of the jetty carries that sand out to the tip of the jetty, where again the water eddies and slows down, depositing sand. The result is a sandbar running north-south at the tip of the jetty on the north side, a user-friendly rip along the north side of the jetty, and a short beach on the south side, with a little drift around the tip that puts you in the right spot for the sets. Because east swells hit those north-south sandbars head on, the whole wave breaks at once. On a south swell, the waves bend as they drag along the sandbar, creating a peeling wave that breaks down the line. This is why the combination of hard structures (jetties and artificial reefs) and strategic sand pumping should be the long term strategy for beach stabilization. If you have a good idea of what sand does where, you can engineer hard structures to interact with each other... and the sandbars will take care of themselves.
Northern Monmouth county gets blocked from a lot of swell from the E due to the Hudson Canyon, which refracts swell towards Long Island. E swells will generally be biggest as you head south towards Ocean County.
Was surfing a spot in Southern Monmouth County (couldn't bring myself to use the abbreviations) on the December 15th swell. Honestly seemed like the sand bar had changed and filled in drastically over a two hour session. There was a crazy current working, but it seemed like the sand filled in big time about 50 yds north of the jetty during a strong south swell. I 've never seen one change that drastically during a session, and I don't think it was an outgoing tide.
all I know is south swells are usually the best barrel deliverers in nomoco.south swells bring thick hollow barrels and a lot of current.the sand is the most crucial factor when it comes to swells.iv seen some spots completely flat while up the road its 5ft and barreling. sand shifts all the time.usually the best spots to check out are the ones that look like washing machines,so when the winds change and go offshore theres usually a good sandbar.i heard people argue jettys help create waves,then I heard how jettys ruin waves and the oceans natural cycle.when theres a big storm,sand moves around,usually parrellel.the jettys block that flow,but also can create waves that reflect off the jetty.usually the best spots are ones that have a rip running out,and u catch the wave right at the tip of the rip,and it jacks up.the ocean is all about cycles,just have to watch and learn.the past few swells in nomoco havnt broke that well because everywhere is replenished,and it takes a while for a few storms to scour out the sand.the pre thanksgiving swell,was the worst iv seen with the crowds.it was very disorganized,but I seen pics of occo and it looked epic,maybe because their bars haven't been buried yet.anytime I see mikey gleasons ride parked up I know its the spot to be,but so does every other surfer in the area.thats why u cant really designate a surf spot because one swell its epic,and the next its flat.just have to bounce around.the last noreaster we had last week,nobody was surfing.i went out early in the morning south of lb,wasn't that big or heavy but it was ok.then I hed down to bayhead in the pm and its a zoo.i guess everyone wants to surf with the pros.the stretch of beach from lavellette down to montoloking is always breaking good.people don't realize hey,i can surf with 20 people,or I can drive 2 blocks up and have perfect a frames to myself.the cold is never an excuse,thats why I laugh at this polar vortex stuff.theres places in the world where its that cold 24/7.in Canada,nico a pro surfer was saying how his car was iced to the ground.wetsuits keep u warm nowadays.winter is nothing new,and surfers love winter in the ne.people surfed the great lakes,where its fresh water and it gets much colder than salt water.salt water doesn't freeze,so they say,but a few weeks ago the sandy hook bay was a bunch of iceburgs.theres people who are dedicated,and those who are not.nothing wrong with skipping a few sessions because its freezing,better to be safe than sorry.in the winter time nobodys there to help u.iv had a few sessions where I got worked so bad I swam in and sat it out for the day.but nothings worse being suited up,driving to the beach,and staring at epic waves knowing its not safe out there.after watching the mavs contest,i feel like a complete pansy complaining about the cold or its too big.u can take a 6 footer on the head,or a 60footer on the head.both spots are cold,mavs not so much as jersey this time of year,but they have great whites to worry about and mavs is a far far paddle out where ur sitting in 60ft deep waters.i like getting barreled but lately iv been interested in the big wave paddle game.im years off from doing it.mexico is the best training ground.im not one of those people who would show up at jaws inexperienced in bigwaves as I am,and say hey im doin this.im given all bigwave guys their shine,but I remember a few jaws swells ago,video is on surfline,where its mark healy and a few others paddling into the biggest jaws at the time.healey said I guess people aren't into paddling jaws anymore.then a mediocre swell arrives and the crowd looks like pipeline.like I said theres those that's dedicated,and those who aren't.guys like dorian,healy,the long bros and many others are there because they love doin what they do.then u have a bunch of amautuer bigwave riders,guys who are pros and rip medium sized waves,show up when its 15 ft and surf like hey im just as good as healy or shane.just my opinion
Cep. I'm no grammar/spelling Nazi, but it's hard to read your posts... And I actually do like your input. You usually have very good points Just a space after periods and capitols to start sentences would make it way easier. Don't mean to be a di*k, but I was half way through your post and wet blind.
