Had a hell of an early morning session today, so much fun! Me and my cousins, nobody else in the water. Everywhere I checked first was so disorganized, then we rolled up to ********** and it was ****ing firing and clean. Thank you surf gods, I have missed you!
up at 6. at beach by 630 hit 7 pres. atthe end of theboardwalk. we were the first peopleout there. riptides messedup the break on the jetty at first but there was a huge peeling break in themiddle def overhead. such a surprise. picked up around 9 when winds went dead west. started firing of the jetty. !
Lucky sons of b*tches, i had school and super strict parents, thought ow well after school will be good still, at 3:30 onshore wind se, no fun
