What a great day of Surf yesterday, HH+ w/light offshores and clean wedges where I was at, people were out but it was spread out, good waves tend to do that to a crowd, one of the best days in recent memory... how'd youse guys do? Swell continues today btw, still up to chest high maybe some plus sets at a few spots and glassy. Couldn't have ended the summer any better!
Knee high chop. Usually SC mess. Had a few good rides, but I was missing the clean stuff we had Friday morning.
What's funny is I stopped off at one of my other go-to spots but it was kinda wonky out, it had size but was chasing peaks around like a mirage, so I packed up and went 10 minutes south to my other spot it was like night & day, perfect conditions, majority of waves I caught were HH, couple I was looking up at, very fun
HAHA Not trying to rub it in, but with all the complaining of this hurricane season, I thought i'd throw some positive vibes, it wasn't that good everywhere, I just happened to pick the best spot
Yeah, we had a super fun day in Central Florida too! And then stopped by to watch some awesome surfers at SebInlet contest. Glad you had a great day too today might be even cleaner, but duty calls
Ya its been decent down here the past few days. Heard it was a little bigger toward Jacksonville. Smyrna was easily chest to head.
If you go to Ponce or New Smyrna chances are you will at least score a rideable wave. Just about every day there is at least something here to ride. Down side though is the crowd. Local here are very aggro too! Sebastian breaks but not nearly as often as Smyrna or Ponce. Ponce is basically just the North jetty and Smyrna is the South jetty. If driving there about 30 minutes apart because you have to go all the way around. If the swell is more southeast Ponce side usually picks it up better. During a big hurricane or storm swell when its messy as hell and like a washing machine everywhere, it usually forms a nice wave inside the inlet. The current is pretty extreme but you can usually get a pretty good ride because its sheltered inside the inlet. After you take a good ride the way the beach is inside you just walk back and jump off the jetty to the peak.
This is all true but not the location I was at (this time), There was a spot about 45 minutes South that was going off, so I went there instead for a shorter drive and it paid off
Scored here. Really fun with size yesterday morning. Positive vibe fo sho. Groms were ripping all over the place. I left my second session bleeding from the lip.
Wait till I'm there it will be tall n glassy n you will be stuck behind ur computer. Hehe I ll let come over n have some beers n watch. Glad ya had a groovey day.
Nice! Glad you all scored too, Betty we must of been in the same general vicinity, Dudeclimbing hopefully when you come through it'll be firing like it was on Saturday, you'll be in heaven, water is sooo warm and tasty this time of year
Looked at domes last few n been nice. Looks like ya gonna get better down there too. Some stuff building.
Yeah dude, you're going to run into something down there for sure, this is about the time it started last year and I hit a solid swell for most of my trip (both times)
Glad to hear everyone got some. Down here it was shoulder to head and clean and crowded at the Juno Pier. I opted to surf a bit south in very fun chest to shoulder high lines with only four others. The lifeguard let us ride through the swimming zone since there were no swimmers out. All the guards are cool here, some are pro surfers, there is only one douche who we just ignore. I think I had more fun Saturday afternoon on the incoming push on my longboard than I did on Thursday morning when the swell hit. It was bigger then, and I had my shortboard out and got some fast power pockets, but lots of closeouts. Just getting into a rhythm on the mal in clean rippable surf definitely rekindled my stoke. I am going to build a HPLB. My buddy who is deceased used to make the best longboards. a little narrower, with a thruster set up and a pretty good amount of rocker. On the tail you can ride it like a shortboard. My wife put 100 holes in it with a hammer one night ( Irish redhead - go figure). Clark foam closed a week later. Serge, my shaper friend can only guide me from the other side, but I still have the board in my garage so I have all the dimensions. Moral of the story - hide all your boards before (or right after) you piss your wife off.
except that clark foam and todays foam (us blanks, arctic, etc) are different. I made he mistake of trying to get an old clark shape made with a us blank and the board ended up a boat
Wow. That's capital punishment attacking your quiver. What was the offense? If the tables are ever turned, put her favorite shoes in the toilet. Unless you'll have to buy them again.
