I picked up an old single fin that looks like a ton of fun but I havent been able to get it wet. My deal-i-o. The board had major dings on nose and tail. I fixed what I could with the epoxy and cloth I had and then ran out. Went and bought new epoxy and hardener and went back to work a few weeks later. Used more hardener than normal to do sort of a hotcoat as this was getting to be that stage in repair. I have never done a proper hotcoat before but understood this was how it was done (applied with brush also). Here's where everything begins taking 30 steps backwards. I thought the resin was curing slowly but after leaving it out overnight, I noticed it was turning white in the morning dew. Anytime the resin (that should have cured in the days left in the sun) got wet, it turned white and almost made me feel like it was acting water soluble. I used a bunch of it and realized I had to get that crappy resin off. Maybe it was too old??? Now Ive got a board with harsh sandpaper marks (said F-it after many weekends and used wet 80 grit) and I dont want to go buy more resin. Can I just do a wet 220 and pick up some buffer and go for it or do I need to get more epoxy?
Ok, so epoxy doesnt go bad but I have to use the 2:1 ratio... makes sense. Thanks! .. @ clemson, I am scared about the chemicals and whatnot going from the board into my skin if I take'r out in the drink. I will have to post pics later. THe board would look great without all the sandpaper marks. Bright red but not has white circles everywhere. Back to my question, can I just buff dis ***** out? My sanding hasn't reached cloth from what I can tell.
Curing epoxy resin outside in the cool night air is bad. Letting high humidity/moisture (dew!?) get on it while is curing is pretty much going to prevent epoxy resin set up property because it is exactly the opposite of conditions that epoxy curing prefers which is WARM and DRY.
thanks. Set the board out for plenty of time (maybe tried 5 times) in direct sun but was still a bit tacky. Then left it overnight a month or so ago one night and saw in morning that a few raindrops or dewdrops accumulated which was the first time I saw the resin go white. When it dried it went back to clear-ish. Glad this is a retro beater and not my go-to although really hoping it turns out. As mentioned, the resin is no longer the issue as I got it off. the redic amount of scratching from sanding is now the issue. I looked up sanding and buffing and am just going to try and do a wet 220 and then buff the board out unless I am otherwise persuaded. Thought I graduated ding repair 101 but guess not.
Either way, you mentioned using more hardener than usual. That's death for epoxy. 2:1 ratio warm dry cure The way I see it you have two options to get a nice finish 1) sand out the scratches. If the scratches are from 80 grit, I'd go 120, 220, 400. 2) If that doesn't work (if the paper just gums up horribly), its probably because of the resin that wasn't kicked off properly and I'd just reapply more resin using 2:1 ratio and warm dry. Unsolicited additional advice: The old board is a poly board...using poly sanding resin (either mekp or UV cure) would have been wayyy easier.
Mitchell, are you saying that because the same issue wouldn't happen with Poly, or because poly-sanding won't gum sh*t up nearly as much? Both? BTW, I was thinking about that snapped board repair the other day, don't remember if I responded on that thread... Dowels would wiggle and create pockets in foam, correct. But what about adding two 1/4 length stringers? Like a triple stringer, but the two outside stringers are shorter. It would be a pain, but done correctly with a router/jig, I'm thinking it could add a lot of strength. Also ... guys, I am letting a ding with some water in it dry out right now. I already tried suckin' it dry, now she's drying out, ding-side down, inside. Any tips on dry time etc.? I am very cautious to take a blow-dryer anywhere near a board.
Like the other guys mentioned- epoxy is a totally different ball game. You gotta stick to the mix ratio on the bottle. Your just going to have to sand the junk off... I know it's a pain.... Just the way it goes. Just get that off and start over. Everyone goes nuts over a "hot coat"... Just mix the same as you would and use a brush- you'll get the same effect. Some times a hot coat will get small air bubbles cause it's curing too fast... There is a better technique to get better results- first mask out the area with masking tape. Then do that final coat with a brush and half way dry- pull off the tape. Then when dry, sand down to flush with 80/200/400/600 wet. Then get 3m rubbing compound (found at advanced auto near the bondo) and buff it out. Personally I stick to poly - I have up on epoxy years ago... Unless it's an epoxy board of course. The only think epoxy is good for it the winter repairs done in your basement to avoid fumes
