So at around 6:30 i paddled out at a location in NJ (hint: has a structure to block wind) and it was pretty good. Then all of a sudden a huge strom clould rolled over and it got dark and the winds stood still. The next moment the waves got EPIC head high bombs rolling through like nothing. The skyline and the waves were magical the surfers out were all happy, everyone was cheering on everyone it was one of the best surfing experiences of my life. I have never surfed such good waves with such an nice comradery in the water. This is a evening of surfing i would truly never forget, this is what surfing is all about.
I had similar experiences surfing in Jersey. I lived there for almost nine years. I believe Jersey surfers are as hard core as they get and when it gets good, they are gracious too. Glad to read your post.
