It's all in your head, but you gotta settle your affairs before you're gonna get right in your head. If you're out there wondering what your kids are gonna do without their daddy, you better paddle of shame it. 1. Take care of your family first. Get life insurance with a big AD&D rider. Make a living will. Put your documents where the fam can get to them and execute them. Done. Nobody dies in accidents, so that isht is dirt cheap. If I buy it surfing (or driving to work), my fam gets a payday bigger than I would've made in my whole working career. Costs less than hitting Starbucks once a week. 2. Take care of yourself. Eat right and exercise like a mf-er. Especially if you're only surfing a couple of times a week or less. Run on the beach if you get skunked. It doesn't do you as much good as surfing a lot in heavy conditions, but it helps. 3. Don't paddle out if you're not gonna have fun. You should know good big from bad big by now. No shame in passing on bad big. You're probably just gonna bust up your equipment and get rattled if it doesn't look fun out there. Settle those three things and you can hit the water with a clear head. Whenever it's big, I always say to myself "Time to have a fking blast and maybe make my kids millionairs!"