http://www.surfline.com/surf-news/j...uring-building-nw-swell-on-october-10_119039/ swell for days...getn on it now boys, dunno where, kind windy....wish me luck...6'10? or 7'4?
one time a japanese surfer asked me to rescue him at lanis but i didn't (!!) cause the rip....i called 911 and jetskis got him....
surfed a spot between leftovers and waimea, 6 foot proper and fun went out on 7'4 water is upper 70's? its perfect. just perfect. first large swell marde wate a lil cloudy stirring up the summer funk, but it was good! dropping swell all weekend, hopefully more spots will work as swell drops
people complain I dont talk a bout surfing now that I am, suck it surfed pipe for first time last night only 20 dudes out, it was 4-6 with occasional plus sets? plus sets were more hitting OTW, wanted no part of that, just beatdowns over there! got three waves in 100 minutes, first left at pipe was a beatdown second one at pipe was proper 5 footer? well overhead and dreamy, in the mouth but not tubed deep, then straightened out before it closed out last right at backdoor was a beatdown, made the drop, but straightened out, should have pulled in always always shoulda pulled in.......... on to ______and_______________ this morning
hey i like hearin bout it whether i'm there (i'm NOT) or not. about pulling in...and u know this....listen to the wave...also, its better to pull in cause you'll get pounded while inside but maybe/probably get pounded harder on the straighten out...
