Today and yesterday were my first real hollow days. I got soo pitted and I'm already frothing for more. So, I was wondering what all your first real hollow days were like. Mine was in New Jersey, with just me and another guy out in decent sized waves.
During august this summer I got so pitted, there was about 45 people out and everyone was clapping because It had to be the biggest wave of the day with an air drop on a 7' 11" bing fun board, and I got totally smashed and cut up but it was awesome Solid head high day
getting slotted is the best feeling ever. Funny to cause it is just pumping down the line and balancing. easy enough right? Wrong: truly difficult and more rewarding. I absolutely love getting barreled! i can't do airs and stuff so i love cutbacks and barrels.
I love the sound of getting deep.... its thunderously loud yet silent! Its hard to describe and maybe its because its such an adrenaline rush but you have this actual sound of the wave smashing and then once you sink back into the slot you get that really weird hollow, funneling sound, somewhat like a toilet when you flush it but much prettier! If you don't make it things get louder and distorted and then you pretty much just here bubbles and such. At the same time though it seems as if the world goes dead quiet and things take on a "dreamlike" state. I wonder if that's just the adrenaline kicking in and the rush of a good ride? If you have ever been in a "flight or fight" situation like a car accident etc... that also seems to happen.
Probably a bit of both rush and good ride. The craziest part is when you see waves as you paddle out - you know what they look like when you're in them. Sometimes that can be scary. Sometimes its thicker and wider than high. There are times when head high is insignificant vs. the pounding that ensues
