First Trip To California (workout routine?)

Rents used to live in San Diego, the only thing that would get me when I would go visit was the paddle. The breaks I was surfing were further out than here in DE. After a couple days I was conditioned, but the first two or three would work me a little. Good luck at Mavericks. HA

 

Pm baddy for info. He's the best surfer here because he rides a firewire and has been to Hawaii.

 

1) probably not.
2) yes
3) yes

 

This lady is way harder than Atantico can ever dream of being

Kooky, maybe try this?


http://www.surfermag.com/features/regardless-of-circumstance/4/


Over the last decade, it’s become a rite of passage for NorCal big-wave riders: Go to Ocean Beach on the swell of the season. Wax up your biggest gun when, seemingly, no one else has the sack for it. After an hour of brutal beatings you emerge, victorious, on the outer bars, where house-sized A-frames detonate forlornly. And that’s when you spot her: a middle-aged woman with an orange swim cap, bodysurfing down the face of a bomb. Depending upon the ego involved, Judith Sheridan is likely to incite chagrin, confusion, or awed admiration among hellmen. Perhaps mountaineers feel the same way when they rely on equipment to accomplish what their Sherpa does with relative ease. But Judith is no Sherpa—instead, she is a 49-year-old geophysicist from Detroit, whose first real experience riding waves came a little more than a decade ago. She’s improbably transitioned from lake swimming, to ocean swimming, to bodysurfing, to bodysurfing Maverick’s.

Technically speaking, this makes her a true maverick—she has never considered herself one of the “tribe,” and it’s only recently that surfers have begun to appreciate the depth of Judith’s courage and abilities. The whole reason she began bodysurfing big waves was to get away from surfers. She suffered routine drop-ins in crowded conditions, as surfers serially underestimate Sheridan’s ability to make waves. After a broken nose and broken clavicle, she retreated to the outer bars to find some peace.

“When I’m in the water, I feel most like myself,” Judith explains. She feels steadier, more aware, more in control. It’s only in recent years that Judith found a medical explanation for this feeling. In 2008, after years of problems with balance and a degradation of sight in her right eye, Sheridan was diagnosed with multiple sclerosis. Her physicians estimate she’s been fighting the disease for 25 years. Judith notes that heat activates MS lesions in her brain, meaning cold Northern California water provides therapeutic benefits. Judith is hesitant to let MS define her, but she admits, “MS has directed my takeoff style and how I ride a wave.” She has developed a unique underwater takeoff to compensate for the loss of strength in her arms. She’s utilized this style at Maverick’s over the course of a few dozen sessions. Despite her condition, she feels lucky. “MS has freed me—it’s license to do what I want.”

In a male-dominated sport, where women are displayed as blonde teenagers in bikinis (if at all) it’s hard to process Sheridan. She literally finds herself alone, in the dark, murky water that most casual surfers strive to avoid: swimming, without a surfboard, in the bowl at Mavericks’s, with vision and muscle-tone degraded by a debilitating neurological disease. While self-proclaimed legends win $50,000 for letting go of a tow rope, Judith inhabits our cold nightmares and makes them her solace and retreat. Sheridan notes, “I like to keep my head down and pretend I’m invisible.” She’s not

 

Gnarly

 

Hey Seldom
Thanks for posting that--I had not seen before. Interesting story; gutsy lady.

 

What's the point of a thread like this?

 

There used to be a photog dude who would swim out to Mavericks and hangout in the bowl. We thought he was pretty hardcore, but this lady is on another level.

 

Yo SS that was the best thing I've read in weekz...thankz for sharing the dope....

 

[video=youtube;513B0szqFe8]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=513B0szqFe8[/video]

 

Hokey crap!!!

 

not callin nobody a liar but catching a whiff here; you know?
embellishment; perhaps?
the story falls well into place.
like, say, a writer would do.
not someone who does that....you know, tempts death...for kicks (!?)
i dunno.....

 

I buy the lady's story more than the OP's. It's a bizarre form of trolling to post that you are totally incompetent.

Bodysurfing is easier in big surf, than being tethered to a board. It's also a better workout. Except on exceptional days at standout spots, most everyone spends the majority of their time sitting on their board, waiting. I imagine there are days when she's not paddling out at OB or Mav's because it's too big, like any sane normal person who surfs for fun, would do.

I also seriously doubt you can bodysurf anything much over DOH, even with a hand plane. I can't catch anything that big without a board--you need dolphin speed for that. Maybe someone can post a pic or video that proves me wrong?

 

Looks like you already have the best places scoped. Only suggestion is make sure you look left when you drop in at Malibu. If you see someone closer to the peak, wave and smile and scream "party wave" as you drop in. This will ingratiate you with the locals and make you seem like a fun-loving expert.

In Mavericks, it will be different. The waves are bigger, but much more laid back, so feel free to do a late takeoff from as deep as you can. That will give you a longer ride and the honeys watching on shore will be more impressed by your prowess. Try wearing a shorter leash than usual so you can grab your board quickly and go on the very next wave.

25 jumping jacks may be too much; you could pull an Achilles tendon. I suggest lowering to 15, and maybe add five to ten sit-ups, which will help expand your diaphragm. Maybe some pop-ups on the beach just before going out - but make sure you dig the fins in so you don't break them when popping up on the sand.

For breathing exercises, try breathing into a paper bag for 5-10 minutes, the run around in circles until you pass out. Make sure the floor where you do this is carpeted and try to wear a bike helmet with a gopro attached to the top. The carpet is so you hit something soft and fluffy when you fall, the helmet to protect your bean so you can ask more inane questions in the future, and the gopro is so you can post the results and everyone can have a light-hearted chuckle in response.
----
Disclaimer: Please do not take any of this advice seriously. I assume your question was in jest and I answered in kind. In the litigious society we live in, I feel compelled to ruin the joke with a disclaimer that I am not an expert, have never surfed Mavericks, don't know anything at all about exercising and everything mentioned above is a joke - in other words, don't follow any of this advice and stay out of Mavericks and Malibu, and avoid silly exercises at all costs.

 

Jerk. HA HA

 

one time i wanted really good surf so i went to the gold coast of q-land during cyclone season and
nailed a huge storm perfectly except it was 15/20 ft and offshore and clean....and i just stood on
the beach....and went......be careful what you wish for.......and no i didn't but 2 days later
things got better.

 

I don't get it. Where am I? Should I still do jumping jacks?

 

I was joking