First Trip To California (workout routine?)

JawnDoeski · Jan 30, 2015

Ah man the only thing I ever worry about when going on a "surf trip" that involves boarding a plane...where am I gonna score some reefer..."Real Surfers" never paddle out before a lil dance wit Maryjane...

Peajay4060 · Jan 30, 2015

baddy trailerpark said: ↑

one time i wanted really good surf so i went to the gold coast of q-land during cyclone season and
nailed a huge storm perfectly except it was 15/20 ft and offshore and clean....and i just stood on
the beach....and went......be careful what you wish for.......and no i didn't but 2 days later
things got better.
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q-land? Did you meet q-bert? was he neat?

CBSCREWBY · Jan 30, 2015

bubonicphoniks said: ↑

I was joking
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Bube, You forgot (insert sarcastic emoticon here)

salt · Jan 30, 2015

KookieMonster said: ↑

Hahahaa, sorry folks, figured it was about that time of year where people start booking tickets for places that are way out of their league.. then spend a month worrying about ruining their investment.. because surf might be too good.

This is my sorry excuse for a poetic expression of that archetype. Not trolling, tried to make it obvious, sailquik gets it.
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Been there. Watching predictions for 10 feet at 15 seconds and stuff worrying like "oh sh*t, i'm either gonna get my azz handed to me or i'm gonne be drinking beers till it mellows-out". But then, once I got to said destination, I understood (just like most other destinations) that not everywhere is a giant slap-in-yo-face beachbreak with no options other than duckdiving head high shorebreak and getting washed like a pair of pantalones. I learned
that NJ sucks, and everywhere else in the world is way easier to surf, for the most part, even when it gets "big". LOL.

Special Whale Glue · Jan 30, 2015

Word^^^^^^^^^^

I can do 5 sit-ups now! I think I'm ready for Peahi!

DawnPatrol321 · Jan 30, 2015

seldom seen said: ↑

Kooky, maybe try this?

http://www.surfermag.com/features/regardless-of-circumstance/4/

Over the last decade, it’s become a rite of passage for NorCal big-wave riders: Go to Ocean Beach on the swell of the season. Wax up your biggest gun when, seemingly, no one else has the sack for it. After an hour of brutal beatings you emerge, victorious, on the outer bars, where house-sized A-frames detonate forlornly. And that’s when you spot her: a middle-aged woman with an orange swim cap, bodysurfing down the face of a bomb. Depending upon the ego involved, Judith Sheridan is likely to incite chagrin, confusion, or awed admiration among hellmen. Perhaps mountaineers feel the same way when they rely on equipment to accomplish what their Sherpa does with relative ease. But Judith is no Sherpa—instead, she is a 49-year-old geophysicist from Detroit, whose first real experience riding waves came a little more than a decade ago. She’s improbably transitioned from lake swimming, to ocean swimming, to bodysurfing, to bodysurfing Maverick’s.

Technically speaking, this makes her a true maverick—she has never considered herself one of the “tribe,” and it’s only recently that surfers have begun to appreciate the depth of Judith’s courage and abilities. The whole reason she began bodysurfing big waves was to get away from surfers. She suffered routine drop-ins in crowded conditions, as surfers serially underestimate Sheridan’s ability to make waves. After a broken nose and broken clavicle, she retreated to the outer bars to find some peace.

“When I’m in the water, I feel most like myself,” Judith explains. She feels steadier, more aware, more in control. It’s only in recent years that Judith found a medical explanation for this feeling. In 2008, after years of problems with balance and a degradation of sight in her right eye, Sheridan was diagnosed with multiple sclerosis. Her physicians estimate she’s been fighting the disease for 25 years. Judith notes that heat activates MS lesions in her brain, meaning cold Northern California water provides therapeutic benefits. Judith is hesitant to let MS define her, but she admits, “MS has directed my takeoff style and how I ride a wave.” She has developed a unique underwater takeoff to compensate for the loss of strength in her arms. She’s utilized this style at Maverick’s over the course of a few dozen sessions. Despite her condition, she feels lucky. “MS has freed me—it’s license to do what I want.”

In a male-dominated sport, where women are displayed as blonde teenagers in bikinis (if at all) it’s hard to process Sheridan. She literally finds herself alone, in the dark, murky water that most casual surfers strive to avoid: swimming, without a surfboard, in the bowl at Mavericks’s, with vision and muscle-tone degraded by a debilitating neurological disease. While self-proclaimed legends win $50,000 for letting go of a tow rope, Judith inhabits our cold nightmares and makes them her solace and retreat. Sheridan notes, “I like to keep my head down and pretend I’m invisible.” She’s not
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I have that issue laying around here somewhere. Great story and really makes you think. Surfing, mainly in big waves, is about mind control and conquering fears. It's incredible what she's been able to do. Makes me think it's totally possible for any one of us to go out there and do the same. I mean, what's our excuse? No neurological disease that's for sure, at least not me, can't speak for everybody. It's daunting when you look at it (Mavs) the first time, but with mind control, anything is possible, right?

sailquik · Jan 30, 2015

KookieMonster said: ↑

... Not trolling, tried to make it obvious, sailquik gets it.
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You called it "the" Mavericks. That was enough of a hint. I surfed Malibu once. Not recommended. I prefer the kind of zoo with lions and tigers and bears.

worsey · Jan 31, 2015

Peajay4060 said: ↑

q-land? Did you meet q-bert? was he neat?
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who is q-bert?
don't recall meeting him.

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First Trip To California (workout routine?)

JawnDoeski Well-Known Member

Peajay4060 Well-Known Member

CBSCREWBY Well-Known Member

salt Well-Known Member

Special Whale Glue Well-Known Member

DawnPatrol321 Well-Known Member

sailquik Well-Known Member

worsey Well-Known Member