Fixing my snapped Haydenshapes...

Well...what can I say...OH day with plus sets in Seaside, NJ a number of weeks ago. Dredging tide and I got caught by a lip after dropping into a bomb...came up and saw only the tail of my board floating near me. Board was a custom I got two years ago so I believe I got my $$$ worth from this Hayden. Especially as I put my knee through it on two other occasions...as well as a few other dings. Greta board...as well First time I've ever snapped one of these boards...whether a custom or GSI...and I've had about 8 of them over the last 5-6 years. With that said...

Usually I toss stringers boards like this as there is little hope in repairing it without causing an excessive amount of weight and or it snapping in Front of the fix due to the location. But I want to give a rebuild a whirl in light of The materials and build of this board...we'll see if my attempt is really worth it...



First I cleaned it up a bit...removed wax, cleaned up the fractured glass, sanded the bottom with a 60 grit on both sides. Then I drilled a frame in the board to get the rocker/rail line as close as possible. A bit more sanding and some cleaning up of the gap and readying to fill it.





Filled the gap with a single pour RR resin/slow hardener and a ton of q-cell on both sides of the board in an uninsulated shed. Removed the frame after the bottom pour hardened and then filled the deck. After sanding saw a odd color on one side of the bottom pour and noticed it must have been too much resin and too hot--shouldn't have rushed it. I cut out the glass and cleaned it up the void and will do another slower pour...more to come...

 

Sorry Barry...have to disagree with you on the "kook" board perspective. but thanks for the opinion...you ever give one of these a whirl before...serious question.

Also...I'm a fan of trying to fix everything...you always end up sacrificing something whether that be flex, weight, etc. I believe everything is fixable...so why not try to fix it up...especially when I have other boards I can ride.

 

So back on to the fix...

Rather than fill the new gap with another of additional q-cell/resin pours...I noticed I had a bit of left over 3lbs. EPS that I added to the mix. We'll see if that was a mistake or not I. The future but at least it reduces the weight a bit. Additionally, Knowing I have to give the board a bit of structure a friend had a roll of uni-directional Carbon. I laid a few pieces of carbon down on the rails, deck and bottom. Should give it a bit more strength but I'll be adding some quad-axial glass and 4 oz. s-glass which should really do the trick.

At this point I sprayed the carbon with a bit of spray adhesive and will likely lam the quad axial and 4 oz. at the same time.

 

Thanks for clearing things up Mitchell...I used spray aversive to put the carbon in place before I squeegee it with resin. The unidirectional carbon I have is pretty stiff and doesn't like to confirm to a curve even when glassing. Over the carbon I laminated the fiberglass...

Glassed down the carbon and had a few issues around pressure dents and basic fraying--it got everywhere and I really couldn't prevent it outside of vacuum bagging it...probably the better way in the future. Not pretty but functional. Over the carbon, I dropped the quadaxial glass on the deck and laid a bit on the bottom past the crease. I then covered it all with single 4oz. S glass top and bottom. It gained a lot more weight Than I expected due to the quad axial glass--probably weigh it afterward to get a sense of just how much compared to my other similar sized Haydens. This stuff has to be similar to 6oz in how dense it feels...and it just soaked up resin. Texture is more like a woven fabric than a typical fiberglass (Nt., pic below of the quadaxial next to a 4oz piece of s-glass). Smh for using so much of it but I'm guessing the deck is going to bomb proof and if it does snap again it'll be just ahead of the quad axial on the bottom. In the future if I ever had the opportunity to grab some of this type of glass I'd go with a 2 oz or a really light weight. Sanding and hotcoat up next.