I went out to assateague yesterday and was not able to get on a single wave after an hour and half! I've only been out two other times since september or october when it seemed like I was starting to progress and having a blast. Having said that I was stoked not only to be out again but also there were a couple guys out there, I didn't get a chance to say hello, that were really inspiring, cross stepping and making me want to keep it up. I"m dying to move closer to water and get more time out.
What the reason why you couldn't get onto waves ... especially after an hour and a half .... seems ridiculous
doesn't seem ridiculous it was ridiculous. I did a late take off and got worked as much as a knee or thigh high can work you. . .
How long have you been surfing? What are you riding? If your just starting, i would not care as much about how im surfing but to the fact that i am out there.
A few years since it started to click. Yesterday I was on a 9' pearson arrow twin fin, but usually ride a 9'4". the waves were breaking a lot hollower then I'm used to, i think because of the onshore 15mph wind, I guess and I don't think I was positioning right, too far out maybe. I want to be able to surf in more conditions then clean knee to waist mellow break. As I said being in the DC area getting out is not easy with the distance, work and family. Thanks for the encouragement.
Oh well sounds like you just need to practice on poping up earlier, for those faster, hollower, small waves... practice on the ground while you are doing nothing far away from the ocean... next time just get in the right position and be ready to pop up quick
Perserverance I have been surfing for years and that still happens pop up right to stand no half kneeling also shoulder hop and as someone said don't be afraid to just through yourself over the ledge sometimes you will be surprised what happens
Onshore winds making the waves hollow? It's usually offshore winds, when the wind blows from land to water. Anyway... I think it has to do with the fact that you've only surfed 2 or 3 times in the last 6 months, AND your board choice. I've never ridden a Pearson twin fin, but I just don't get the concept, from a design perspective. I think it's supposed to be a performance longboard. Does it have a really pulled in pin or diamond tail? Does it have a lot of rocker? If it does that could be your problem... those work best in better waves. Post a few pics... outline, bottom, rail profile, rocker.
I'm not sure it has clicked.... not to be discouraging but 2ft waves in 15mph onshore winds isn't exactly optimum surfing conditions. Even a good surfer would have trouble surfing in those conditions, that's why they don't paddle out in that crap. Keep an eye on the conditions and pick your sessions more wisely. With modern forecasting............ ya know.... that swellinfo place........ it's pretty easy. Pura Vida bro good luck
Yeah the pearson arrow is exactly as you said, allot of rocker and tight pintail, I got it on craiglist a a few years ago, I hadn't brought it out in a while so I thought I'd give it a try. by onshore wind I mean the wind was coming off the land, that's not discouraging I was unsure about it but had the time and really wanted to get out after so long. Yeah there were 8 people out there and two were getting regular waves.
(Stoked then Frustrated)So check it out,get off early Friday.Grab my board,and my bag.Roll up to my spot.Forgot my suit on my couch.Newbie move and super bummed.At least it wasn't good down there.That commercial comes on last night when that chick rolls up to the beach in her is suv and tells the dude it looks good out there.My wife looks over to me and says I forgot my suit thou,Hahaha.
Okay day I was there from 7 until 2 on Wed. Swellinfo had it as a 2ft clean day. It was cleaner until about 10. A crosswind picked up and made it fairly choppy for the rest of the time, however it was very clean when the wind died down a couple of times and I enjoyed some nice rides. I've been a bodyboarder for 30 yrs, but transitioned to a surfboard two years ago. After experiencing what you've described numerous times on very nice 9'8''--being out and catching nothing--I decided to go to a surf camp and it was a total game changer. Learned how to read the sets so I didn't waste as much energy paddling for trash waves. I also used a 12ft surftech softtop with stoked success that I purchased one after I got back east, and am glad I did. The longer board gives a faster hull speed. I don't live close either, therefore I need something that will give me every advantage whenever I can get down. Was out on a really trashy, foggy cold day in March and still caught some rides. Softtops get a bad rap from a lot of surfers, but mine transformed me. Wed was an okay day. Timing was everything. Had to take a couple extra paddles to catch them, then you had to get up really quick or go over the falls. Aloha and Mahalo. Hope to see you there sometime.
It's narrower and thinner than a SUP. The shape design is a Mickey Munoz. I wanted an 11', but Dept of Goods had this one for a steal. I know it's not everyone's ride, but because it works in such varied conditions (from the clean 8 footers we saw at Assateague in the fall to Wed's conditions), I'm a believer....and my kids can ride in front of me on it. Perfect for what I do and why I'm there....rides, glides and camaraderie. You guys have any tips, please pass them along! See you there! Here's a link showing what's available. http://shop.surftech.com/s.nl/sc.12/category.62871/.f
