I paddled out today to a heavy beach break, 6 - 8 ft and thick pitting barrels. I knew this was a local break and was trying it for the first time. At first all I could think about was how I needed to rip to show these guys in the lineup that I was legit, but I kept f^<K!ng up.Then, while I was paddling through the cycle to the take off zone again I said to myself, "Do something fun." It immediately changed my attitude and the next wave I caught was a closeout. I didn't care anymore and launched myself into a flip on the pull out. I had fun today, I hope you all did too.
