Light wind, E/NE swell, lined-up, kinda thumping, all lefts...Just fun. Anyone else get some this afternoon? Oh, and crowds were non-existent.
I have felt your pain. I used to live on Greenville Loop Road in Wilmington. WB was such a fickle place to surf. Not nearly as much juice as we get in NJ, but such a fun place to surf. If I knew then what I know now, I would have fished down there...A LOT.
Delmarva - chest head high, light winds, beefy long period E lines thumping solidly on improved sandbars.
ocnj was also beefy. 4ft well defined sets. if the wind had cooperated it would have been very good but it didn't....
Cut my afternoon short to hop on a train and finish what I started this morning!!! Gointogetsome!!!! The drift was strong and fast this morning, has that eased up at all??
Northern moco was big and chunky , sets just about DOH , heavy current , crowded ..the " pros ",Mike Gleason Sam Hammer , others , the current and the drops were equalizers , broken boards , couple of guys washed into the rocks ...but if you got the right one ...yahoo 100 yds. of fun . I scored about 1/2 dozen in a 2 hour session , not to bad . looks like repeat tomorrow .
Check out the Sig Wave Height map, they've got it on here too. Keep it close to your chest on days this kind of stuff may happen (for whatever reason). Here's a buddy and I all alone on one of these days at a popular spot around here: I don't think this will happen tomorrow, though photo credit: Robbie Johnson
I checked around 1, I saw the current and watched those two dudes think they didnt have to paddle hard, hoping the current would do the work. My buddy and i were like "wtf are they doing." Then they got smashed on the rocks. Funny but mostly sketchy at same time. By the time they hit rocks they didnt even care about their boards. Could have been worse. Then back to work.
Big. Heavy. Turbulent. Still got 1 decent ride in 45 minutes. Clock is cleaned and I'm gelled. Almost all shorepound straight line impact zone for about 1/2 mile I was able to check.
Totally been there. At a certain point, your board's survival is less than trivial and you don't even want to have to be thinking about it. Similar for me tonight bro. Got spun, spun, spun, and spun again. So Gnar. These were in trying to get out back and on duck dives. At one point, I was way out back then duck dived through 3 sets and didn't even get spun and had decent dives yet maybe not because after the third I was in the shorebreak. Tons of current and power, over 1200 kJ in the water tonight. This is your report yesterday bro. Seems like same yesterday here which was way cleaner than today and still big. Thought the wind was supposed to be better today based on report but it was worse. Sucks because I didn't paddle out yesterday due to tons and tons of work to do. Glad I'm getting the work done for sure but I would've loved to get just one sic fast ride on a huge wall. I have time for DP in the morn before I leave town. Sounds awesome mitch. Hope you enjoyed. Thanks for the pics from there last weekend if I haven't already thanked you. Much appreciated. Tough to get that lucky one though in shifty BB with long lines and walls of barrelling closeout sets plus current getting you out of position fast. Can't believe it was as hollow as it was with onshores. That's a testament to the size of the swell plus long period. Anyone else think it was on the creepy side tonight? It's getting dark really early now and it was well overcast here if not slightly drizzling. There were a half dozen people out and I stayed near them just in case. I've been in way, way worse gnar and a lot colder at that, but got the heebiejeebies for some reason tonight. Knew to respect the conditions. How about how warm the 58-59 degree water felt because of the 55 degree air with wind on it? I was in 3/2 sans boots or gloves but wasn't sure until I stepped in. Funny how 70 feels colder on a 80 degree glassy day when you first step in than 58 did tonight. I am not ready for winter conditions to get here. Easing myself into the change by charging as much as I can will help in that.
respect your heebiejeebies. how many shark attacks last TWO days?? if there is no swell (at that moment) and you rise up slightly and then set back down.....PANIC!
Really doh?? I surfed southern moco and it was only head hi at best. Choppy messy fat and all lefts. Was the spot your talking about in the mo beach area? I should have surfed Belmar- heard it was 23ft... Again
