lets see: two non-fatal gws attacks and one kayak chomped...(OZ, cali, cali)....last two days. the kayak is on gmamerica today.
HEY MATT were you there when my buddie snapped his board ..and how about when John C. ate it on his sup and nearly got washed into the rocks .Finally paddled out after I saw you , and the crowd thinned a bit and scored some .Catch you on the next one .
North of mon.beach I'm sure you know the spot..seems like everyone else does ...but yeah it was that big and holding ...lot of fun .
Cool I know the spot- must have been the only spot around that was any good! Man I should make the trip up there sometime... I haven't paddled out there in years....
Ho brah, got some sore as hell shoulders and upper back in between shoulder blades. Must've been paddling harder than I realized in the gnar last night. I'm sure the spin has something to do with it also. You bet Spicoli held onto his surf stick during duck dives in the OH. Checked the break this AM before I headed out on my flight for biz and despite single digit winds it did not look impressive. Need some stoke.
All the cams for Moco look like a wash machine on agitate I doubt it'll clean up. But the day is young and I be watching!
More shocking of a story is that you watch gmamerica!! unless of course you're someone's wife, then that's typical.
naw...i'm someones' husband. just caught it channel surfing but i promised myself i would stop w/them on account they hired tim tebow.
I had fun yesterday. It was a slop-fest in the late afternoon, solid chest + sets & occasional HH, light current, but with surprising power. Onshore wind and not many faces to work with, but they were there if you were patient and persistent. I had a few questionable wipeouts where I ended up tangling with my board in the wash. Looks like the next week may bring nothing but a longboardable bump here, so it was good to get out.
Yep. As soon as your buddy took off you were like "not that one." Bummer his leash broke at worst time. I have to be careful cuz if I take another shot to the brain, I could be in an unfixable situation. Next time when my equilibrium actually works...see you out there.
It was... I wouldn't call it DOH, except maybe on a couple drops. But solid head and a half, for sure... and if you could connect the sections, 100 yards is a conservative estimate.
Hi-ho hi-ho, it's off to surf I go. I'm sure we will see all the NY plates on this one. People from NJ are actually friends with these kooks from NY and PA. Some of these guys from NY get boards from people in NJ. What is the world coming to? I"m not in the mood today with the crowds. I'll have a story tonight when some NYer with his newly shaped board trying to snake me deeper or dropping in on me. Don't worry I"ll push you deeper until you land on the rocks and I'm not saving your ass. Have fun out there NY aholes cause I will prevent you from having fun, go home!
ocnj good; multiple beaches working which good ting on account there were A COUPLE HUNDRED surfers. problems w/sup kooks and longboard kooks and shortboard kooks but waited 'em out and got a good tunnel and a couple of rock 'n rollers...
