I remember those little ccs catalogs.never bought anything from them,but always cool to look at the shyt u cant afford. as a skater I can say surfing is way more fun than skating.skating is cool if u know what your doing,surfing u can have fun even if ur a kook.just the feeling of being lifted up and flying down the line is a surreal experience.i try to explain it to my non surfing family since they think im retarded for surfing.its kind of cool being around so many non surfers,makes u appreciate surfing so much more.the taste of salt water in your mouth,the smell of wax,the empty beaches in the winter.people seriously think im crazy when I tell them yea im going to the beach after work,like its February.yea I know,its the best time.
When I was a kid, I had really, really bad pollen allergies. My eyes would swell shut, my nose would bleed... really rough on me. I'd ride my bike to the beach to go swimming because being in the water was the only time I would start to feel normal again. So I ended up staying in the water for very long periods of time... hours on end, some days... and it got really boring. I saw guy surfing and it looked fun, but what I really noticed most was that they stayed out for HOURS. So I just started borrowing boards from guys at the beach and learned in one summer how to catch waves. That winter, I got my first wetsuit (actually, boots, gloves, hood, farmer john, and sleeves) and surfed all winter, and never stopped. A few years later, I noticed something else... all the cute girls like surfers. Then surfing took on a whole new purpose!
Yes, I believe your right but it more like a rebirth. It's the inexplicable energy you feel when you are in the water surrounded in a comfort that is so familiar. No time exists, no concerns. Solitude. The ultimate free ride to happiness. The reason I had started this thread is because, nowadays I see so much negativity, and selfishness in the water I wonder where some are coming from. People will be who they be.
