getting that repair smooth

Discussion in 'Surfboards and Surfboard Design' started by Agabinet, Mar 25, 2016.

  1. Agabinet

    Agabinet Well-Known Member

    309
    May 3, 2012
    I am not shy about doing modest repairs myself, but especially on the flat bottom of the bort, I have a hard time getting the repair (usually a sun-cured product repair) flush and smooth to the rest of the bottom of the bort -- and I worry if I sand too much I'll ruin the finish of the surrounding area. I use the trick of a piece of plastic over the repair while curing, but still wind up with those pesky little unsmooth bumps. Any tips for this?

    TIA
     
  2. headhigh

    headhigh Well-Known Member

    Jul 17, 2009
    Not an expert, but i sand as flat as i can with 220 grit, re-apply sun-cure and repeat until flat. Once its pretty flat feather the edges and use some 600 grit wet sand paper to finish. I also suggest using 2 part poly or epoxy rather than sun-cure.

    I usually leave the repaired area a tiny bit raised, like a millimeter or two, to make sure the repair is solid. If you want it 100% perfect drop the $50 and have a pro do it.
     

  3. HaydukeLives!

    HaydukeLives! Well-Known Member

    396
    Mar 24, 2015
    I always found that the prep is the most important part. if you have it prepped well getting the hotcoat to lay flat is an ease.
     
  4. DawnPatrol321

    DawnPatrol321 Well-Known Member

    Mar 6, 2012
    I usually go with the DingAll repair kits when I need to do a ding repair. I also use Suncure for very minor dings and keeps things water tight. A little sanding and you're good as new. It even comes with an instruction booklet lol

    Although, I accept the fact that over time my boards are going to be a little less beautiful, but as long as you keep em water tight they'll last forever (in some cases) and continue to ride well. Just smooth out the jagged edges with some sand paper and get back in the water. And like someone else said, if you want it 100% perfect, have a pro do it. Or spend the time practicing.
     
    Last edited: Mar 25, 2016
  5. Special Whale Glue

    Special Whale Glue Well-Known Member

    Oct 8, 2011
  6. DawnPatrol321

    DawnPatrol321 Well-Known Member

    Mar 6, 2012
    and whale jizz
     
  7. mrcoop

    mrcoop Well-Known Member

    605
    Jun 22, 2010
    I just got done doing a pretty large repair on a large pressure ding...had to use q cell. After the initial pour, I still had a dip, applied again with squeege. Then laminated with cloth. Then the hotcoat, which pretty much took care of the little dip that was left.

    I use suncure for the first time. I will never use the regular stuff again, except for maybe around fin boxes. Made a batch with q cell, had several repairs and never had to worry about working in a certain time frame. Great stuff!...and makes repair fast. I could fix a large repair, and a few hours later, go surfing.
     
  8. Barry Cuda

    Barry Cuda Guest

    Nope, I prefer a chain saw.
     
  9. Special Whale Glue

    Special Whale Glue Well-Known Member

    Oct 8, 2011
    I swear that was my first answer then I changed it.
    Who knew morons could be psychic too.
     
  10. ClemsonSurf

    ClemsonSurf Well-Known Member

    Dec 10, 2007
    try putting your sandpaper on a block of wood. The flat surface will hit the raised areas and should keep it off the good glass more than SP in your hand.
     
  11. bubs

    bubs Well-Known Member

    Sep 12, 2010
    Once you get this done once and realize that you can really sand the Sh$t out of a board you will never go back.

    First thing is you're using suncure. You are going to get better results (finish too) with a two part resin.

    I hit the repair with 80 or 120 grit (whatever is cheap) until its almost on the same plane as the rest of the board. As in the repair is now just a hair above flush with the board completely. Think a human hair or two. Then comes the sexyness. Hit it with higher and higher grit until wet sand then youre done.

    Example: 80/150/220/300/500/1000 (wetsand)

    Mask off the area with some room in between the ding (depending on the size ding) this way you wont rough up the rest of the board.

    It really all depends on the existing glass on the board and the finish you desire.







    Any how this post was just thrown together real quick so if you have any questions feel free to ask no matter how simple they may seem. Or PM me. Like clemsonsurf said youre going to need a sanding block.
     
  12. Mr.Belmar

    Mr.Belmar Well-Known Member

    Aug 19, 2010
    Sand it down relatively flat with 120 - then when almost flat/flush- just feather the edges trying to only sand the resin you put on. This method works best if you neatly masked out your repair with tape.

    Once you feather the edges- go at it with working your way down in sand grit like others guys mentioned. I start wet sanding at 220, then 400 then 600. After that I use rubbing compound (buff magic or similar ) to get the gloss coat back. Looks just like new and you'll have a slight bump in the repair- but it's probably better that way adding a little strength instead of sanding too much away and making it flush- but weak. You choice
     
  13. ScobeyviIIe

    ScobeyviIIe Well-Known Member

    Nov 3, 2015
    in all honesty, if you really like the board, take it to a pro.

    If you're gonna be a cheap ass and try to do it yourself, use 50% of the whale jizz -(resin)- you think you need. Sanding is annoying.
     
  14. Whalerus2

    Whalerus2 Well-Known Member

    123
    Sep 23, 2015
    Did sum 1 say whale jizz??
     
  15. Agabinet

    Agabinet Well-Known Member

    309
    May 3, 2012
    Thanks all. I have learned four things. Use 2 part rez. sand a lot. Whale jizz iz better than two part resin. And I will use a chain saw when I am ready to short bort!